Food for Thought
By Brandon Watson, Fri., April 1, 2016
The current vogue for recalls in Austin has spread far past the political realm. The latest wave, started by anonymous political action committee We Have Reservations, seeks to remove pretension and snark from local food journalism by removing Austin Chronicle Food Editor Brandon Watson. (Editor's note: Since I am the only staffer in the Chronicle Food section, I will be reporting on the petition against me. I will endeavor to do so objectively.)
"Since [Watson] started with the paper, he has compared restaurants to Seventies fashion designer Halston and a Blind Melon video," says petition supporter Andrew Wiseheart, chef/owner of Contigo and newcomer Chicon. "No one ever knows if he actually likes a restaurant." Eater Austin editor Nadia Chaudhury agrees, "For months now, we have been quoting complete nonsense in our 'Week in Reviews' posts. While it is always clear what [Austin American-Statesman food critic] Matthew Odam thinks about a restaurant, Brandon's reviews are word salad."
In addition to the complaints about Watson's critical voice, the petition alleges that his preference for upscale, New American eateries is contrary to the spirit of the city. "Brandon can't just eat a Frito pie," says Austin Food & Wine Alliance Executive Director Mariam Parker. "He actually carries around a pair of tweezers and a bunch of micro-chervil in his pocket to make sure everything is plated properly. It's insufferable."
Watson declined to comment on that, but he disagrees that there is any need for a recall. He says that his refined palate is raising the bar for Austin's culinary scene. "I know this town is famous for Tex-Mex and barbecue," he said recently while foraging for loquats, "but wouldn't it be better if we were known for poke and escamol? If this petition succeeds, we will all just go back to eating good food instead of food that impresses our former high school classmates. I don't think anyone wants that."
Did we miss any petitions? Tweet 'em using the hashtag #AustinRecallAll and we'll print our favorites in next week's issue.
Got something to say on the subject? Send a letter to the editor.