Lucky J's

Photo by John Anderson

www.luckyjs.com
5703 Burnet Rd., 296-9914
Tuesday-Thursday, 11am-8pm; Friday-Saturday, 11am-9pm; Sunday, 9am-4pm; Monday, closed

I walked up to the tiny red-and-black trailer parked on Burnet Road. On one side, an image of a flying chicken brandishes a waffle, proclaiming the goods for sale: fried chicken and waffles, a specialty made famous by Los Angeles' Roscoe's, whose version has long been regarded as a beacon of Southern cuisine. The siren aroma of fried chicken paired with crisping waffles emanating from the trailer drew me like a magnet. On the customer side, blue Plexiglas partially obscured the trailer's interior and its occupants. When I stepped up to order from the tiny screened-in window, it felt a little like confession – forgive me father for I have sinned. I proceeded to order the Baller ($14.99), eight pieces of fried chicken with four waffles. Damn, it was good.

Disclaimer: I don't recommend this for anyone counting calories, concerned about cholesterol or blood pressure, or threatened with heart disease. Enveloped in thick, browned crust and heavily seasoned with salt, pepper, and a combination of 17 spices that I suspect include strong doses of celery salt and thyme but whose precise composition will no doubt remain a well-guarded secret, this chicken is both greasy and salty; this is not a criticism. The homemade waffles have a luscious buttery flavor with a hint of sugar to them. Though typically served with syrup, I prefer them just buttered. Wrapped around a chunk of crackling fried chicken with a splash of hot sauce, the whole ensemble is sinfully delicious.

Chicken-and-waffle combinations can be ordered in a variety of sizes. The Deal is four pieces of chicken and two waffles for $7.99; less ambitious eaters can order two pieces of chicken and a waffle for $5.99. Brunch is served on weekends and includes – surprise – fried chicken and waffles in various permutations, accompanied by a live gospel band that plays in the parking lot to the patrons sitting at the picnic benches. Look for an indoor dining room in the adjacent building to open in the coming months, plus an expanded menu that will include other Southern and soul-food specialties.