World Cheese Book
Reviewed by Kate Thornberry, Fri., May 28, 2010
World Cheese Book
Edited by Juliet HarbuttDK Publishing, 352 pp., $25
There have been quite a few attempts by cheese experts to codify their knowledge for consumers, but none of the previous books have managed to be as useful and well-put-together as this compendium – recently nominated as the 2010 Le Cordon Bleu World Food Media Awards Best Food Book – which examines more than 750 cheeses from every cheese-exporting country.
Juliet Harbutt, one of the world's leading authorities on cheese, is a crisp, no-nonsense person in both her speaking and writing styles. Her straightforward approach is very effective at demystifying the hundreds of varieties of artisan cheese that are now available. First, she groups the cheeses by country of origin and name, making any cheese you wish to look up very easy to find. A tiny map of the country of origin shows exactly where the cheese is produced. A small, simple chart gives specifics, such as the size of the entire cheese, what sort of milk is used to make it, and how long it is aged. Two full-color photos illustrate each cheese: a close-up of its color and texture, and a picture of the cheese in its entirety. The process used to make each cheese is noted, along with tasting notes and recommendations for serving it, including dishes in which it is traditionally used.
Harbutt also provides all the basic information on how cheese is made, including the processes involved in making fresh cheeses, aged cheeses, blue cheeses, semisoft cheeses, hard cheeses, and flavored cheeses. She also discusses the various fat contents of different cheeses, bringing the good news that cheese is significantly lower in fat than generally thought. The information is so user-friendly and thorough that if you take this book to the store with you, even the most elaborate cheese counter will utterly lose its power to daunt you. I've found myself feeling eager to put together cheese plates for company and confident about trying new cheeses, even expensive ones.