I Know How to Cook

Encyclopediae

Complete Summer Reading

I Know How to Cook

by Ginette Mathiot, translated by Clotilde Dusoulier
Phaidon, 976 pp., $45

Ginette Mathiot's Je Sais Cuisiner has justly been compared to Joy of Cooking. It is big, comprehensive, and classic. First published in the 1930s, it was an essential tome for every French housewife. A new English translation, by Clotilde Dusoulier, makes this book accessible to American home cooks for the first time. In it you will find recipes for virtually every French dish you could possibly imagine and a few you probably never even dreamed of. There are nearly 30 pages devoted to eggs, and it includes recipes for virtually every kind of meat, from chicken, beef, and lamb to venison, rabbit, and squab. There are recipes for stuffed artichoke hearts and braised endive with cream. The sheer volume of the more than 1,400 recipes borders on encyclopedic.

Americans may be surprised to find that these are not Julia Child's leisurely recipes. Rather, they are simple, practical, and designed for a true everyday cook with an interest in feeding a family. Most can be prepared in the space of an hour or two. But even though the recipes have been updated to suit modern cooking trends, and quantities have been adapted for the American kitchen, some of the recipes and directions feel a little spare. The recipe for onion soup, for instance, asks for nothing more than onions, stock, butter, flour, salt and pepper but would probably benefit from a few extra ingredients to deepen the flavor. Inexperienced cooks may find themselves frustrated over the lack of exposition, while those with more know-how may want to enhance the recipes to suit their tastes. But fundamentally, this is an excellent reference guide to French cooking that will be handy in every home kitchen.

A note to readers: Bold and uncensored, The Austin Chronicle has been Austin’s independent news source for over 40 years, expressing the community’s political and environmental concerns and supporting its active cultural scene. Now more than ever, we need your support to continue supplying Austin with independent, free press. If real news is important to you, please consider making a donation of $5, $10 or whatever you can afford, to help keep our journalism on stands.

Support the Chronicle  

READ MORE
More French cooking
Book Review
Healthy French Cuisine for Less Than $10 / Day
Braux's latest book offers belt-tightening recipes

Melanie Haupt, Jan. 13, 2012

More Food Reviews
I Am a Filipino and This Is How We Cook
I Am a Filipino and This Is How We Cook

Kahron Spearman, Oct. 26, 2018

Buttermilk Graffiti
Buttermilk Graffiti

Jessi Devenyns, Oct. 26, 2018

More by Rachel Feit
Kitchen Ghosts
Kitchen Ghosts
Unearthing Austin's culinary history: Schneider Beer Vaults

May 20, 2016

Walking the Fine-Dining Line
Walking the Fine-Dining Line
How much is too much for Austin diners?

May 6, 2016

KEYWORDS FOR THIS STORY

French cooking

MORE IN THE ARCHIVES
One click gets you all the newsletters listed below

Breaking news, arts coverage, and daily events

Keep up with happenings around town

Kevin Curtin's bimonthly cannabis musings

Austin's queerest news and events

Eric Goodman's Austin FC column, other soccer news

Information is power. Support the free press, so we can support Austin.   Support the Chronicle