Restaurant Review: Juicy Claws

The Boiled Combo #1 with wings and fries (photos by John Anderson)

Set in a nondescript strip mall on the far northwest side of the city, Juicy Claws takes flavors from two seemingly disparate cuisines to craft a truly Texas experience. So-called "Viet-Cajun" restaurants aren't a new creation – they've been growing in popularity in Houston for years – but the Austin market has been underserved. Amalgamating the recipes of Texas' Vietnamese population, one that has been steadily growing since mass emigration began in 1975, with that of coastal cuisine heavily influenced by our Louisiana neighbors, this combination yields some delicious results.

The breadth of flavors is at work all over the Juicy Claws menu, and a dish like chicken wings shows it clearly. While the standard Buffalo and even lemon pepper options are available, Saigon fish sauce and garlic butter are, too. The wings are good-sized and well-cooked, with enough sauce to please. On the Cajun side of the ledger, po'boys with shrimp, fish, or oysters are the sandwich of choice. The bread is fresh but not exceptional, and the freshly fried proteins and toppings make for a solid choice.

The portion of the menu that will intrigue many is the standard boiled dinners. No need to fire up a big pot in the backyard: Juicy Claws will cook up shrimp, crawfish, and even snow crab with either Louisiana spices or garlic butter. Combine with corn, potatoes, and sausage for a messy, very tasty affair. It is no small amount of work to retrieve the best bits from these creatures, but it is absolutely worth it. Don't worry – gloves and a bib are provided. Those won't help if the spice level is too much, so order appropriately.

Pasta comes into play with both garlic noodles and linguine with basil Alfredo. Chicken, shrimp, and lobster round out these flavorful starchy plates. The basil in the linguine elevates it from standard Italian American fare to something that fits nicely in these environs. The fried rice is straightforward and what one would expect from any good Chinese restaurant in town, maybe even a little more. It's a delicious dish, and there's even a crawfish and sausage version available. Very apropos.

Like any self-respecting seafood establishment, fried plates are available. Shrimp, fish, and chicken pair with seasoned Cajun or sweet potato fries. These are safe options for conservative palates, but will still satisfy. Other seafood specialties like grilled jumbo squid, garlic parmesan oysters, and basil clams offer a more adventurous path. There are also several soups on the menu, like clam chowder and tom yum for some Thai flavor. The gumbo would fit in nicely at any Cajun joint.

This isn't the type of place to visit expecting high-end modern aesthetics or overly attentive waitstaff. The calling card here is the food, which is well-priced, well-cooked, and brought out in short order. Juicy Claws is a great addition to an ever-growing part of town that will bring lots of different kinds of eaters together for some truly inspired food. Good luck narrowing down all the choices.

Juicy Claws