Fonda San Miguel
Brunch in Austin
Reviewed by Virginia B. Wood, Fri., March 16, 2001
Fonda San Miguel
2330 W. North Loop, 459-4121Sunday Brunch Buffet, 11am-2pm, $28.95, reservations suggested
Fonda's renowned Fiesta Sunday brunch is a perennial winner in our annual restaurant poll and it's easy to understand why. The beautifully decorated buffet table is the centerpiece of the main dining room amidst tropical plants and a world-class, museum-quality Mexican folk art collection. Charming chef Roberto Santibanez can be found at the buffet every Sunday, greeting patrons and introducing them to a fascinating array of Interior Mexican dishes, some of ancient traditional origin and many newer creations. Friendly and professional waitpersons will keep clean plates, cutlery, and baskets of fresh, homemade corn and flour tortillas supplied to your table, along with beer, wine, or margaritas, at your request. A pitcher of Mango Margaritas for the table is always a good place to start. The buffet is arranged so that you can join the circle at any time. On one end, you'll find an array of salads, everything from tart ceviche to creamy guacamole to slivers of nopales in a tangy vinaigrette. Along the front side of the table are large clay ollas filled with meats in moles or pipians (sauces of ground nuts, spices, fruits, and seeds) to be served with rice dishes and creamy black beans. The other end of the table is laden with traditional Mexican desserts such as arroz con leche (rice pudding), capirotada (bread pudding) and flan almendrado (almond flan). The far side of the buffet holds chilequiles, egg dishes, vegetables, and a miraculous sweet corn pudding. Quantities of food this wonderful are meant to be enjoyed at your leisure. Order another pitcher of margaritas and pretend you're in Mexico for the day.