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Champagne and Sparkling Wine

Millennium or not, one thing is certain, champagne is the wine to drink this Sunday night. It's as traditional for New Year's Eve as turkey is for Thanksgiving. The dilemma we all face is how to sort through the myriad possibilities and still get good value for our money. Here are my thoughts:

Remember that champagne is a specific name for sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of northeast France. Champagne will always be the most expensive of all sparkling wines. If you don't want to pay upwards of $25 for a single bottle, skip champagne and head straight for the sparkling wines. If you are willing to ante up, you might want to consider these champagnes. In the lighter style, we are big fans of Tattinger ($34) and Perrier-Jouet ($34). Jaquesson ($31) and Montaudon Brut ($28) are richer, more full-bodied wines. We are partial to Rosés, usually made by adding a small amount of still Pinot Noir wine to the champagne. Billecart-Salmon Rosé ($65) and Dom Ruinart Rosé NV ($85) are our favorites.

Inside France, but outside the Champagne region, many winemakers are trying to steal some market-share from the big boys. We adore François Montand ($8), both for its delicious flavor and remarkably low price. Gratien & Meyer Fleur de Lys Cardinal ($17) is a nontraditional wine from the Saumur area of the Loire Valley; dark red with beautiful pink bubbles and sweet blackberry flavors. Peche Imperiale ($10) is a fun wine made from Chenin Blanc with a little touch of Peach flavor. Hardly traditional, but lots of fun for New Year's Day breakfast.

American winemakers have been trying to catch up with the Champenois for years, occasionally producing some startling wines. Our favorite is from New Mexico, of all places. Gruet Blanc de Noirs ($15) is rich and toasty with excellent flavors. We are also big fans of Iron Horse Vineyards Brut Rosé ($32), a rich wine that can stand up to all sorts of powerful foods but still tastes good all by itself. Roederer Estate NV Brut Rosé ($19) is almost as good, for much less dinero.

Other parts of the world are getting in on the act, too. For a real treat, try the German Richter Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Brut ($18) with its seductive Riesling aroma. At the bargain end, Italy's Zardeto Proseco ($10) and Spain's Paul Cheneau Brut Blanc de Blanc ($10) are incredible values.

What will we be drinking on New Year's? Gruet Blanc de Noirs ($12). What would we like to be drinking? Dom Ruinart Rosé ($85). As always, your best ally is a sympathetic and skilled wine salesperson. Have a safe and happy New Year.

Five Things You Really Need to Know About Champagne:

1. Only sparkling wine that comes from the Champagne region of France can legitimately be called champagne. If it comes from somewhere else, it is properly called sparkling wine.

2. Champagne is made from any or all of the following varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier. Sparkling wine can be (and is) made from almost any grape in the world.

3. A wine that is made the exact same way as champagne, but not in Champagne, is referred to as methode champenois.

4. Great wines abound in both the champagne and sparkling categories. Terrible wines also exist in both categories.

5. There is no direct relationship between price and quality. Great wines are available under $20 and boring or even bad wines are available at over $200.