Second Helpings: Creole/Cajun

Beauxdacious po-boys, muffalettas, étoufée, and jambalaya in this week's Cajun / Creole-themed "Second Helpings."


The weekly Chronicle feature "Second Helpings" offers readers the opportunity to sample tasty, bite-sized restaurant listings compiled from new and previous reviews, guides, and poll results. This week's entries were updated by Chronicle Cuisines editor Virginia B. Wood from an original publication date of July 16, 1999. When you need quick, reliable information about Austin eateries, check here.

Shoal Creek Saloon

909 N. Lamar, 477-0600

Mon-Wed, 11am-10pm;

Thu-Sat, 11am-10:30pm;

Sun, noon-7pm (kitchen hours all days)

Shoal Creek is the local home for all of the N'awlins Saints football games -- 'nuff said? Louisiana native Bud George, a 20-year Cajun chef, builds his food from the ground up and does it the right way, including smoking his ducks for the gumbo and making his own boudin. Beauxdacious po-boys, muffalettas, étoufée, jambalaya, combos, and all the traditional sides -- Shoal Creek has small prices and the BIG taste.

Eaves Brothers Quality Seafood

5621 Airport, 454-5827

Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm

Quality has been in business since 1938, but Sam and Dexter have been running it for the last 10 years or so. It's the place where all your favorite restaurants get their seafood, so you know it's the freshest. What most don't know is that it also has some of the least expensive (dare I say cheap?) and highest quality Cajun food around: po-boys, étoufée, gumbo, shrimp Creole, and seafood of all types. Great for lunch or early dinner.

The Boiling Pot

700 E. Sixth, 472-0985

Mon-Thu, 4-10pm;

Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm;

Sun, noon-10pm

Home of the famous Cajun Combo popularized at the original location in Rockport-Fulton Beach on the coast. You're armed with a wooden mallet over a table covered with butcher paper to attack a boiled basket of blue crab, shrimp, sausage, spuds, and corn. It's work, but worth it -- try the sides of boudin, mudbugs, gumbo, oysters, and red beans and rice.

Pappadeaux

6319 N. I-35, 452-9363

Mon-Thu, 11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm;

Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm; Sun, 11am-10pm

An Austin arm of the Papas chain from Houston, Pappadeaux is the 300-pound gorilla of the Austin Cajun scene. Pricey, loud, and raucous, and you're assured of a wait to eat and (possibly) to park. Huge portions selected from a huge menu, and Austin's Cajun seafood crowd just can't get enough. Try eating at the bar to avoid the wait and the crush.

Old Alligator Grill

3003 S. Lamar, 444-6117

Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm

Austin's near-south wing of the Cajun Empire, Old Alligator Grill has a loyal following of folks eager to eat its offerings of Creole chow. Slightly updated versions of the standards, along with the usual suspects: filé gumbo, jambalaya, po-boys, and a whole mess of seafood, blackened and not. The prices are quasi-pricey, but things come with bottomless vegetables.

Gumbo's

901 Round Rock Ave., Round Rock,

671-7925

Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm, 5-10pm;

Sat, 5-10pm

710 Congress Ave, 480-8053

Mon-Thu,11am-2pm, 5-10pm;

Fri,11am-2pm, 5-11pm;

Sat, 5:30-11pm; Sun, 5:30-10pm

Gumbo's founder Michael Amr still consults with Gumbo's owners Fired Up Inc., and the expansion of the company couldn't be in better hands. The fare here is upscale Creole, and chef Steve Warner offers sophisticated takes on several New Orleans favorites. We're partial to the Crab St. Helen, Crawfish Eddy, and the wonderful Shrimp Cocktail for appetizers, both steaks and pasta dishes are very satisfying, and the desserts, especially the chocolate or vanilla New Orleans-style custard, are fabulous. The downtown location has a definite Crescent City ambience.

Jazz, A Louisiana Kitchen

214 E. Sixth, 479-0474

Sun-Wed, 11am-midnight;

Thu, 11am-1am;

Fri-Sat, 11am-2am

Jazz is hoppin' all the time, with a widely varied menu offering all of the Cajun faves in a medium price range. It has a big appetizer menu and happy hour from 4-7pm Monday-Friday, with many of the entrées available as half orders all the time. The options lean more toward the blackened, sautéed, and grilled than they do the fried. Check out the numerous pastas and po-boys.

Landry's Seafood House

600 E. Riverside, 441-1010

Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm

Austin's version of the national chain is located in the old Magic Time Machine spot on Riverside with great views of downtown over the water. The menu is traditional seafood with some Cajun items in the mix, including gumbos, po-boys, and blackened and pecan-crusted specialties. Succumb to the signature Bananas Foster for dessert.

McGowan's Cajun Cafe

1101 W. Pecan, Pflugerville, 990-8206

Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm, 5:30-10pm

There have been waves of raves about this little spot owned by Bill & Debra, transplants from the Bayou State. All of the standard Cajun menu bases are covered (at medium prices), along with a wide assortment of veggies for the anti-meat crowd, crab cakes with Creole sauce, blackened catfish salad, and some nice pasta dishes. Try a slice of the sweet potato and pecan pie with Chantilly cream for dessert.

Mrs. B's

8105 Mesa Drive, 372-9529

Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm, 5:30-10pm

The husband-and-wife team behind McGowan's Cajun Cafe in Round Rock have opened a charming little bistro in Northwest Hills at the corner of Mesa and Spicewood Springs. The menu here is more French Creole than Southwest Louisiana Cajun, and the service is friendly and attentive. The availabilty of tasty Creole flavors in the Northwest Hills neighborhood restaurant lineup is a very welcome addition.

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