Food Fetish

Aphrodisiac Edibles for Valentine's Day


photo courtesy "Inter Courses - an Aphrodisiac Cookbook"
The holiday of love is upon us yet again, and as you prepare this year's plan of seduction, remember that food plays as important a role in stirring passions as a schmaltzy card, eloquent love letter, or an intimate gift. Strong cheese may seem a turn-off to some, but without it, an assortment of dense, sticky dried fruit, and a chilled flute glass brimming with pale golden champagne, I may never have ended up with a last name that half my family has trouble pronouncing. Call me a sucker (or an overenthusiastic food-o-phile), but I easily surrendered before these primitive, riverside picnics packed by a determined Frenchman. And in defense of strong cheese, Casanova supposedly swore by Roquefort's powers of stimulation. Sexual desire begins as a stimulus in the hypothalamus of the brain, the same place our appetite for food originates. It's no wonder then, that for centuries man has sought nourishment for the stomach that simultaneously caters to cravings of the more carnal sort.

Aphrodisiacs get their name from Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, and are by definition substances that stimulate or intensify our sex drive. The Chinese were perhaps the first to develop a passion for determining the aphrodisiac quality of different foods, and their culinary history is rich with recipes for libido-enhancing powders, salves, and potions. In China, edible aphrodisiacs such as ginger (which, incidentally, was shunned by the Puritans because it "heated the blood"), have been a preamble to sex for nearly 5,000 years. While modern science debunks much of the mystery behind these stimulating foods by informing us that most aphrodisiacs stir us sexually simply because they contain generous amounts of vitamins and minerals that contribute to the well-being of the body -- increasing our energy level and promoting good blood circulation -- physical form has earned a number of foods an alluring status as well. Throughout history, foods that resemble sexual organs have been said to possess seductive powers. Take the artichoke for example, valued by lovers in 17th- and 18th-century Europe. To savor its tender, tasty heart, a diner must pry open its tight outer leaves and delve deep inside its soft core -- a sexual analogy not lost on anyone.

While herbs and spices figure prominently among historically recognized aphrodisiacs -- the Phonecians and Greeks were partial to saffron because they claimed it stimulated the uterus and increased blood circulation. And many Arab cultures still value mint for the vim and vigor it imparts. A wide variety of fruits, vegetables, nuts, meats, and fish are also believed to harbor amorous properties.


Arousing Fruit

The ancient Greeks exhibited an affinity for figs, their supple texture and pliable pinkish flesh likening them to the softer sides of femininity. Pomegranates, with their abundance of seeds and tempting red juice, have long stood as a symbol of fertility and desire in the Middle East. In fact, so associated is the pomegranate with temptation, that some Biblical scholars insist that the serpent lured Eve with it, not the ordinary apple.

Even more common fruits, such as the peach, apricot, and banana, have connections to the erotic. Both peaches and apricots, with their soft, fuzzy texture and blushing pastel color, were appreciated by Asian and European nobles alike for their luscious, female quality. Today, one particularly unctuous French peach variety retains the name le sein de Venus, or Venus' breast. As for the banana, several groups inhabiting Central Africa are said to believe that the phallic fruit boosts virility in men, and the banana tree alone so powerful that its blossoms will fertilize those women who come into contact with them. (Sisters beware while vacationing in the tropics.) In Northern India, the land of the Kama Sutra, women treasure the coconut. So strongly is the fruit linked to fertility, that priests ceremoniously dole them out only to those women who wish to conceive immediately.


Tantalizing Vegetables

In the vegetable department, fennel is heralded as a source of sexual vigor in men. Roman warriors reputedly munched on the bulb's ribs for strength and the Kama Sutra prescribes the anise-flavored stalks as a cure for those lacking gusto. The humble radish, consumed by the fatigued builders of the pyramids for added energy, has been recognized as an aphrodisiac for centuries, its astringent juice said to excite and warm the body. While the men of ancient Greece reportedly munched on raw onion in hopes of increasing their longevity, Venus was partial to carrots and asparagus, both vegetables said to provoke in her great pleasure and delight. Asparagus also receives mention in Shaykh Umar Ibn Muhammed Al Nefzawi's 16th-century book, The Perfumed Garden. "Asparagus, with the yolk of egg fried in fat, camel's milk, and honey, causes the virile member to be on the alert, night and day." (Good luck, gentlemen, in securing the camel's milk.) More recently, 19th-century French gastronome Brillat-Savarin lauded the costly truffle as the king of aphrodisiacs and it is said that the diminutive Napoleon routinely feasted on the fungus prior to copulation.


Luxurious Stimulants

When it comes to universally recognized aphrodisiacs, two luxury foods stand out: oysters and caviar. Hedonistic feasts throughout history have typically paired the glistening mollusks and velvety onyx eggs with champagne, and the lavish tradition continues. Legend has it that Casanova slurped oysters on the half-shell prior to his trysts. And even skeptic scientists concur that the oyster has seductive powers, the result of its elevated zinc content. Zinc is essential for the production of testosterone, they note, a hormone that spurs the sexual appetite in both men and women. Caviar's aphrodisiac qualities are perhaps less scientifically founded. Made from sturgeon eggs, caviar is simply, if not surprisingly, believed to increase fertility.

Game meats and beef also claim a place among libido-enhancing foods. In Europe of the Middle Ages, men were said to be best served by dining on the mighty stag or wild boar. Women, on the other hand, derived pleasure from game birds. Certain of the power of partridge, Henry IV of Navarre fed the bird to his mistress, Gabrielle d'Estrees, during foreplay. So convinced was Navarre of the partridge's potency, that he traveled to d'Estrees' home with his chef, who kept surplus supply of the birds on hand. Beef came to be regarded as an aphrodisiac much later in the West, although the Japanese and Chinese have long been privy to the bovine's powers, serving thin strips of beef blanketed with oyster sauce in a kind of "double whammie." In the US, rare steaks found favor in the early 1930s when they were said to assure increasing longevity, and the French's famous steak tartare may have been developed with the same purpose in mind.


Sweet Seduction

There's a reason chocolate is the favored Valentine's Day gift of lovers; the rich, sweet confection is one of the strongest known aphrodisiacs. Chocolate contains both caffeine, which stimulates the central nervous system, and a natural amphetamine known as phenylethylamine. The Aztecs and Mayas both marked the annual harvest of cacao beans with ongoing orgies, and offered the dark pods to their gods at births, weddings, and puberty rites. Legend has it that Montezuma, the leader of the Aztecs, derived his insatiable energy from the 50 cups of chocolate he drank daily in order to respond to the sexual demands of his harem of 600. In the 17th century, English Royal Physician Henry Stubbs formally issued an edict declaring chocolate "provocative to lust."

For a sure-fire sexual pick-me-up, indulge in chocolate paired with nuts. The union is dangerously delicious as many nuts also boast aphrodisiac qualities. The Greeks and Romans favored walnuts, tossing them at newlyweds instead of rice; an ancient Latin medical text recommends hazelnuts as a cure for impotence, and pistachios wielded such power over the Queen of Sheba that she monopolized Syria's supply.


Tex-Mex Was Never So Sexy!!

Never considered our ordinary chiles, avocados, and black beans as the building blocks of love? Well, think again. In their alluring new book Intercourses, An Aphrodisiac Cookbook, ($24.95, hard, Terrace Publishing), Martha Hopkins and Texan Randall Lockridge reveal the steamy side to these seemingly ordinary ingredients. While Intercourses discusses the standard aphrodisiacs, from herbs to the infamous oyster, and offers recipes paired with enticing nude/food photos, their take on Tex-Mex is particularly inspiring.

Chiles, Hopkins and Lockridge say, are a
no-no for nymphomaniacs, as they get the "blood rushing, the heart pumping, the face flushing, and the pores sweating." Avocados, they explain, were referred to as "ahuacatl," or testicle, by the Aztecs who considered the creamy fruit so powerful that virginal maidens were restricted to their homes during its harvest. And black beans, they note, were off-limits to nuns in the early Latin Church because of their mysterious power to encourage procreation.

For a love-luring Tex-Mex Valentine's feast at home, try these stimulating recipes from Intercourses:


Spicy Grilled Shrimp

Juice and zest of 2 limes
3 hot chile peppers, seeded and sliced
2 stalks lemongrass, outer leaves removed, sliced
1 2-inch piece ginger, grated
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons warm honey
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 pound jumbo shrimp, shelled and deveined

Combine lime juice, zest, chiles, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, honey, olive oil, and cilantro in a bowl and mix well. Add the shrimp, coating well. Refrigerate for 4 hours. Thread on skewers. Grill over medium-high heat for approximately 5 minutes on each side; brush with marinade while cooking. Serves 2.


Sweet Bean Pudding

1 cup cooked black beans
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 (14-oz.) can pure coconut milk
2 tablespoons water
Pinch of salt
3/4 cup short-grain white, Jasmine, or Arborio rice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
6 banana leaves or 12 tamale husks
1 ripe banana, sliced in rounds

Mash the beans with orange zest and 1 tablespoon sugar in a small bowl. Set aside. Combine the coconut milk, water, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Add the rice and reduce heat to medium. Cook for 12 minutes or until milk is absorbed and rice half-cooked, stirring frequently. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla, and allow to cool. Tear 1 banana leaf into 4 strips to use as "ties." Place another leaf on the work surface. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the rice mixture in the center, add 3 tablespoons beans. Place 3 rounds of banana on the beans and top with another 2 tablespoons rice. Fold the banana leaf around the mixture and tie a banana leaf strip around the package to secure. Repeat process for remaining packets. Boil water in a steamer pot. Add packets to a steamer rack over the boiling water. Steam, covered, for 45 minutes or until rice is tender. Cool and serve. Yields 5 servings.

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