Day Trips

Fort Mason (Photo By Gerald E. McLeod)

U.S. Army forts in Texas during the 1800s never lived up to the Hollywood image. Fortunately, several of the rock structures still stand or have been re-created as reminders of the courage and fortitude required of the men and women on the harsh Texas frontier.

One of the first U.S. outposts on the edge of Texas civilization was Fort Martin Scott. Established in 1848, two miles east of Fredericksburg, it was on the road west from San Antonio. Local residents and travelers had petitioned the government to protect the new state from Indians. Eighteen months before the army arrived, John O. Meusebach signed a peace treaty with the Comanches that was honored by both sides.

With little threat from hostile Indians in the Pedernales River Valley, the troops spent most of their time escorting wagon trains headed west. The rock and log cabins were only used intermittently after 1852. During the Civil War the Confederates occupied the small buildings until the fort was finally abandoned in 1866.

The Fredericksburg Heritage Federation has begun a restoration project to rebuild the compound. Most of the original building materials were hauled off for home improvement projects over the years. The site does have two of the original structures and two reconstructed buildings. The fort site is open Tuesday through Sunday, 10am-5pm. For information, call 830/997-9895.

Most of the forts in Texas were not the log stockade type as seen in movies; there wasn't that much timber available on the Texas plains. The notable exception was Fort Parker, four miles north of Groesbeck off of TX 14. Built in 1834, the fort was a private project to protect local homesteads. At the age of nine, Cynthia Ann Parker was kidnapped from the fort by Indians.

Her story is one of the most famous in Texas lore. Raised among the Comanches, Cynthia Ann became the wife of a prominent chief. When captured by Texas Rangers 24 years later she had trouble acclimating to Anglo society and died a broken woman. Her son, Quanah Parker, was the last of the great Comanche chiefs and led his people well in war and defeat.

Restored in 1936, the log stockade and blockhouse is a kids' paradise, a life-sized playground. Operated by the city of Groesbeck, it is open during the summer, 10am-6pm.

One of the most illustrious forts on the frontier was Fort Mason. Established in 1851, soldiers there saw plenty of action pursuing marauding Indians. Because of the activity, the remote fort was considered a good assignment for ambitious young officers.

Lt. Col. Robert E. Lee had just taken command of the fort when he was ordered back to Washington, D.C., and offered the command of the Federal Army, which he turned down. Lt. John Bell Hood went on to receive the most rapid series of promotions on either side of the Civil War. Twenty officers stationed at the fort went on to become generals during the Civil War.

The red sandstone and log buildings overlooking the town of Mason were used off and on until completely abandoned in 1869. With the exception of the cavalry stable, all of the original buildings were dismantled. A reconstructed officers' barracks gives a glimpse into the life of the soldiers.

There is no admission fee to the buildings, and the spot offers a scenic view of the valley. One of the best reasons to visit Mason is to go rock hunting. Inquire at local rock shops to learn which properties are open to the public.

If Fort Mason saw the most historical celebrities during its active days, then Fort Clark Springs in Brackettville has seen the most movie actors since it was deactivated in 1944. At least half a dozen Western movies have been filmed at the former outpost. Military notables who were stationed there include Generals George S. Patton and George C. Marshall. During the Indian Wars it was a station for the famous Seminole Indian Scouts and Buffalo Soldier units.

Today the former army buildings have been turned into private homes and a resort. Hotel rooms occupy the two-story, rock-constructed officers' quarters. The old guardhouse has been turned into a museum, open weekend afternoons with exhibits on the military and settlers. The resort has added an RV park, golf course, cafe, and a giant spring-fed swimming pool. For information, call 800/937-1590.

While in the Brackettville area, don't miss Alamo Village. The set of John Wayne's epic adventure film, old San Antonio was re-created on the Shahan Ranch seven miles north of town on RM 674. The 1959 movie set has been used in numerous movies and commercials since then.

At Fort Croghan in Burnet, the local historical society has done a good job restoring several buildings of the former frontier fort. The army arrived on Hamilton Creek in 1849 to take over a ranger station. Within four years the immigrants had pushed the Native Americans onto the plains of West and North Texas. The fort was abandoned in 1855.

Open Thursday through Sunday, 10am-5pm, the fort is on the western edge of town on TX 29. The museum at the entrance to the fort is well worth a visit with many unique objects from area pioneer families. For information, call 512/756-8281.

Other Texas forts worth a visit include Fort Griffin, Fort Richardson, Fort Belknap, Fort McKavett, and Fort Richardson state historical parks, Fort Concho National Historic Landmark in San Angelo, and Fort Davis in West Texas.

For a free brochure on the Forts Trail through Central Texas, call the Texas Historical Commission at 463-6255 or e-mail a request to [email protected]. The official Texas Forts Trail Region Web site is www.texasfortstrail.com.

Coming up this weekend ...

Founder's Day Pow Wow invites the Indians back to Fort Martin Scott to commemorate the unbroken treaty between the Comanche Indians and the Fredericksburg German settlers. In town at the Pioneer Museum Complex, 309 W. Main, the Founder's Day Festival on Saturday continues with music and food, May 11-12. 830/990-4725.

Tejano/Conjunto Festival in San Antonio features performances by some of the stars of Tejano, Norteño, and conjunto music at Rosedale Park, May 9-13. 210/271-3151 or www.guadalupe-culturalarts.org.

Coming up ...

Strawberry Festival in Pasadena at the Civic Center and Fairgrounds brings the carnival to town along with the Texas State Banjo Championship and other musical acts, May 18-20. 281/991-9500.