Thanksgiving Wines

Pairing wines with the Thanksgiving feast is always a challenge. First, the rich foods require wines with cleansing acidity. Then there are the abundant flavors – both sweet and savory – that demand chameleon wines. Here's one rule to remember: Anytime you're confused over what wine will work with a food, the answer is always Champagne. The bubbles will clear your palate, tickle your nose, and make any gathering an event. And because the winemakers pick the grapes while still very young, the wines have plenty of acidity. Anything from vegetarian casseroles to massive hunks of red meat will match up perfectly with sparkling wine. Four great American sparkling wines worth searching out in terms of value for the quality and availability: Korbel Brut Rosé ($10), Gruet Blanc de Noirs ($13), Gloria Ferrer Brut Sonoma County ($15), and J Cuvée 20 ($30). In each case, the step up in price provides a better wine. If you feel like splurging, my pick for the best Cham­pagne under $100 is Bollinger ($45), which would be a bargain at twice the price.

Riesling is another chameleon wine. The German style is gentle with a hint of sugar left in to blunt the intense acidity. While you can spend astronomical amounts on a Ger­man Riesling, our recently approved Seeberger Riesling Box Wine ($16 for 3 liters, the equivalent of four bottles) makes a great party wine. In Alsace, they make Riesling big enough to stand up to pig trotters and sauerkraut. And while some Alsatian winemakers are pursuing the international market, I love the stubborn adherence to tradition at Trimbach winery. No global style for them. Their lowest priced Riesling runs about $20, but if you'd like a taste of greatness, stretch for the Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Émile Riesling ($48).

Just about any red wine works for Thanks­giving. Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet, Pinot Noir – all make great choices. But this year, why not try a Syrah? It's a bold, fruity, mouth-filling wine guaranteed to work with turkey, ham, dressing, sweet potatoes, or anything else you want to throw at it. The only downside is you have to pay a little more to get a good version. Bridlewood Cellars in the U.S. makes several levels of Syrah, but their Central Coast Syrah ($19) is the best combo of quality and value. If you're thinking about getting more than one bottle of red, get Peter Leh­mann's Barossa Shiraz ($18), and taste the difference between American and Australian versions of the same grape.

All of these wines should be available at better wineshops, except the Seeberger Riesling, which is only at HEB.