Kenichi

Kenichi (Photo By John Anderson)

Kenichi

Wednesday-Saturday, 5:30-11pm

Last year there was quite a buzz about Kenichi. Even before its chic portals opened for business, its arrival on a nearly saturated restaurant scene generated heated debate. Was it too cool for Austin? Would it be worth the price? The jury is still out. In the intervening time, this Aspen transplant continues to receive mixed reviews from professionals and foodies alike. Sushi and sashimi here are good, but relatively expensive (prices average around $6 per piece), and portions can be a bit stingy. The sushi rice is sometimes undercooked, falling apart on the plate, and making it difficult to eat. Still, Kenichi is the only restaurant in town that serves freshly ground wasabi, or peppers their plates with julienned shiso leaf. These little touches, combined with the great people-watching and the stunning décor, continue to attract downtown diners.

But there's more to Kenichi than sushi, and diners who want to be wowed should order from the restaurant's regular menu as well. Appetizers such as the tender shiitake negimaki -- soy-infused beef rolled around crisp spring onions and shiitake mushrooms ($10) -- or the giant seared scallop in an explosive Thai red curry sauce ($11) make Kenichi a restaurant worth returning to. Among their entrées, the five-spiced Sika deer ($28), melts in the mouth. Specials such as a seared halibut with basil mashed potatoes and wilted chard ($23) stand out as truly excellent meals. At Kenichi, order the sushi/sashimi as an appetizer and then move on to the real show -- delicate kobe beef carpaccio ($18), or sesame-crusted tuna served with wisps of sweet potato ($25). And prepare for minor sticker shock at the end of the meal. Still, Kenichi can be a great dining experience. Service is generally excellent, the atmosphere is exciting, and the food is among the most innovative offerings in the city. -- Rachel Feit