Second Helpings: More Roadside Cafes
Fri., Jan. 25, 2002
The Hilltop Cafe
10661 Hwy. 87 N., 10.5 miles west of Fredericksburg830/997-8922
Wednesday-Thursday, 11am-2pm, 5-9pm;
Friday-Saturday, 11am-2pm, 5-10pm;
Sundays, 11am-2pm for brunch, 2-9pm for dinner
A genuine honky-tonk on a landlocked stretch of German-influenced Hill Country highway is the last place you'd expect to find Greek/Cajun cuisine, right? Unless, of course, you're already familiar with Brenda and Johnny Nicholas' renowned Hilltop Cafe between Fredericksburg and Mason. The Greek food and Asleep at the Wheel memorabilia are the results of Johnny's background, and the spicy Cajun food stylings are Brenda's contribution. It makes for great ambience, even greater food, and killer live music when the proprietor and his friends take to the bandstand. They've recently added a new party room.
Nutty Brown Cafe
12225 Hwy. 290 W., in Cedar Valley301-4648
Monday-Friday, 11am-10pm;
Saturday-Sunday, 9am-10pm
Years ago, this recently reopened spot was the home of Nutty Brown Mills, a praline shop and roadside attraction famous for candies and the friendly neon cowboy sign that let weary travelers know they were almost back home in Austin. These days, the cafe serves "American Cuisine in a Texas Hill Country Style." We can vouch for the Cedar Valley Burger and the chicken fried steak. There's a great outdoor bar and dining area with a stage and dance floor, meaning live music during good weather.
Side Saddle Bakehouse
1111 Hwy. 290 W., in Dripping Springs894-4001
Monday-Friday, 7:30am-8:30pm; Saturday, 10:30am-8:30pm; Sunday, 9:30am-1:30pm
Austin chef Robert Mayberry has returned to his Texas country roots, buying into this roadside cafe located in the Trail Head Market. While he's essentially keeping the same country-style menu, with steaks, chicken fried steaks, burgers, salads, and hearty sandwiches, the chef is busy upgrading the quality of everything that's offered. The Sunday brunch menu is a little more adventurous and changes every weekend but is still a bargain at $9.95 for adults and $5.95 for kids under 12.
The Range at the Barton House
101 N. Main, in Salado254/947-3828
Wednesday-Friday, 5pm-10pm;
Saturday-Sunday, noon-3pm, 5-10pm
In the Fifties, Texas high rollers flew their private jets to Salado to dine at the legendary Stagecoach Inn while their wives bought couture dresses at Grace Jones' chic salon. These days, Grace Jones has retired, and folks looking for a great meal are likely to be found at the Range restaurant in the historic Barton House on Salado's Main Street. Chef/owner Dave Hermann and his wife Kate have built a loyal clientele with their sophisticated American regional fare. The lovely restaurant is available for private parties and offers catering services as well as a full slate of cooking classes.
Royer's Round Top Cafe
On the Square in Round Top877/866-7437
Thursday, 11am-9pm; Friday-Saturday, 11am-9:30pm; Sunday, noon-7pm
The tiny Texas hamlet of Round Top is famous for antique shopping, charming bed and breakfast houses, and the proximity of both James Dick's Festival Hill music retreat and the Winedale Shakespeare Festival. However, foodies from both Houston and Austin revere the little town as the home of the Royer family's busy Round Top Cafe. At Royer's, the portions are big, the flavors are bigger, and they charge extra if you order their excellent homemade pies without ice cream! Just one bite of the beef tenderloin or the pork chops and you'll be a regular.
Cafe 290
11011 Hwy. 290 E. in Manor272-4212
Monday-Thursday, 6am-10pm; Friday-Saturday, 6am-10:30pm; Sunday, 7am-10pm
If it's happening in Manor, Cafe 290 is the place to find out about it. Hungry locals and travelers alike fill this place up daily, chatting about the news of the day over ample country breakfasts, the very affordable hot lunch buffet ($5.95 for a choice of entrées with two vegetable sides), and a full-blown Texas cafe dinner menu of steaks, catfish, fried chicken, salads, and hearty sandwiches. We're partial to the fried green tomatoes ($3.95), the two sizes of chicken fried steak ($7.95, $10.95), and the deliciously messy Green Chile Cheeseburger ($5.95).
