Zoot Suits

Photo By John Anderson

Zoot

Fri-Sat, 5:30-11pm

The atmosphere at near-West Austin's Zoot is somewhat atypical of current boomtown establishments. A sense of hush and calm suffuses the smallish main dining room and intimate alcoves. Minimal flower arrangements and muted walls complement white-clothed tables and well-pressed waitstaff.

In a time when upscale restaurants most often crop up in high-traffic areas or clamoring urban districts, this nine-year-old stalwart of the Austin scene thrives on a sense of quiet seclusion and implied formality.

And the cuisine at Zoot, not surprisingly, follows suit. Formerly the domain of local chef Stewart Scruggs, this unassuming upscale "dinner house" is now under the culinary control of John Maxwell, who carries on the establishment's tradition of inventive regional American dishes. The kitchen's emphasis here is on seasonally fresh ingredients, subtle flavor combinations, and controlled, near-sculptural plate presentations.

The end result is an exceptional dining experience composed of equal parts "old Austin" relaxation and "grown-up" sophistication.

Zoot opened in 1991 as a team effort between two complementary foodie couples -- chefs Stewart and Abegail Scruggs and local restaurateurs Erika and Bick Brown. Abegail and Stewart were recent graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, and made up an executive chef team while the Browns, owners of Hyde Park Bar and Grill, managed the literal "front of the house."

The title of executive chef changed hands several times in the intervening years. Stewart Scruggs took over as sole chef after Abegail's departure and built a local name for himself in the local food community. Upon Scruggs' 1996 departure, his protégés Marty Frannea and Patrick Ehemann assumed the helm of the Zoot's kitchen. And in late 1999, the position was filled by Washington, D.C. chef John Maxwell, a veteran of Michelin-starred Gerard's and a former partner of San Antonio's Masteña.

Maxwell's classical training shows through in the current incarnation of Zoot's seasonally changing menu. The appetizer list features continental standbys like sautéed veal sweetbreads and rabbit confit along with creamy chevre in fondue form. But Maxwell also integrates other culinary traditions and trademark ingredients into his regional American interpretations.

The subtle flavor of saffron, for example, infuses two dishes on the current "spring into summer" menu. A starter of delicately fried Gulf oysters ($9.95) is accompanied by an equally delicate squiggle of saffron aioli and tangy salad of translucent cucumber shreds and pickled daikon radish. A crunchy shell of chickpea flour encases the admirably moist mollusks, which contrast well against the sweet-sour flavors of the salad. The aioli adds a creamy richness to the pairing while giving the salty oysters center stage.

Saffron's trademark orange-yellow hue is also evident in a vegetarian pasta entrée ($17.95). Fettucine tinted with the rare spice is tossed with a wide-ranging chorus of seasonal vegetables and fresh herbs. Thin, flowery oyster mushrooms and pearl onions give the dish an earthy foundation of flavor, while tender asparagus spears, sweet corn kernels, and sliced cherry tomatoes provide a summery crunch and brightness. A rich substitute for cream sauce -- a goat cheese emulsification topped with a mixture of flat-leaf parsley, fragrant basil, and other herbs -- brings the substantial dish to harmonious balance.

The springtime flavor of asparagus also formed the basis for a recent daily soup special ($8.50). The creamy purée was served chilled and topped with a garnish of finely minced smoked salmon. The blindingly bright green soup was soothing and flavorful while the salty, moist shreds of cured fish added wonderful textural dimensions to each spoonful.

One of the herbal undertones of the soup, pureed watercress, was featured in a highly composed salad ($9.50) that marked one of the kitchen's rare missteps. A tiny pile of the peppery green was dressed with a sweet onion vinaigrette and accompanied by a square of meticulously stacked beet sticks and a medallion of herbed chevre. While tasty, the presentation was clearly the first consideration and a bit too precious given the salad's rather hefty price tag.

Chef Maxwell also shows that he can elevate staple meats to notable heights using competing and atypical flavor combinations. A tangy, sweetly aromatic sauce of rhubarb and lavender complements pan-browned medallions of smoked pork loin ($19.95) in an inventive, twist on "the other white meat." Accompanied by creamy, scallion-studded grits and wilted, bitter kale, this dish provides a varied range of flavors that excite the nose as well as all parts of the tongue and palate.

Even the ever-present breast of chicken gets basic yet inventive treatment at Zoot. A bias-sliced serving of crisp-skinned chicken is paired with a puréed sauce of rich, earthy porcini mushrooms and a tiny dome of asparagus-chunked risotto. Tiny bitter greens -- in this case baby arugula -- set off the creamy risotto and slight sweetness of the porcini.

Maxwell even crosses over onto the Indian subcontinent for inspiration as he did for a recent seafood special. Seared swordfish ($23.95) was served atop a bed of fragrant curried basmati rice and eggplant puree, highlighted by a thin accent of tamarind/basil oil. The fish itself was seared perfectly -- a crisp, caramelized surface giving way to the filet's moist, perfectly cooked center -- and the accent flavors contributed to a winning combination.

Pastry chef Kerry Johnson, a Boston native, matches Maxwell's sense of subtlety in her range of post-dinner sweets. On any given evening, Johnson offers a range of four to six desserts (all $6.00), usually with complex, double-barrel descriptions. Poached peaches served with an oatmeal ice cream sandwich. Crème brulee with crisp cinnamon cookies.

Astute diners will be well advised to listen to all of the description, and then base their decision on the latter half. That's because Johnson enhances the main sweet course with imaginative edible flourishes that go well beyond the mint garnish or finishing swirl of raspberry sauce.

Johnson's bourbon pecan tartlet, for example, is served with a dollop of whiskey-spiked crème anglaise and a tiny shot glass of spearmint-anise granita (shaved ice). The tart itself is a rich, chewy-sweet variation of the Texas favorite with a hefty hit of bourbon for flavoring. The pool of crème anglaise adds its own custardy richness, but the tiny serving of flavored ice unites the entire experience into something memorable. A tiny spoonful of the minty granita (tinged with the slightest hint of anisette) mixes with the residual aftertastes of toasted nuts and heavy sugars as it clears the palate. After a second of cold, mentholated sweetness, the granita has melted away, preparing the tongue for a sip of coffee and another bite of the rich tart. The only down side of the experience is the tiny serving of granita. If you need a little more of the intriguing mint cooler, request a double shot.

Johnson achieves a similar effect with the crispy buñuelo-textured cinnamon cookies served with the crunchy house crème brulee. Baked local peaches are highlighted by sinfully rich goat cheese ice cream sandwiched between chewy, almost praline-like oatmeal cookies.

The overall dining experience at Zoot is also complemented by efficient and unerringly professional waitstaff. The crew of well-pressed servers work the rooms in tandem, always watching for empty glasses or silverware in need of replacement. During our recent visits, the servers made solid recommendations from the extensive yet accessible house wine list. The servers consistently and admirably toed the delicate line of being attentive yet unobtrusive.

So as developers and restaurant groups hatch new plans for the essential Austin restaurant, they'd do well to take a few hints from this old-line dinner house. Professional service, inventive food, and small-scale intimacy may not be the best formula for a high-traffic boom area, but it may just be a good recipe for a solid, lasting run in the local dining scene.