Day Trips & Beyond: Key Lime Pie Tour

With or without topping? That is the question. I favor Key lime pies without topping because the sweetness of a cap tends to overwhelm the tartness of the filling.

Even though the basic recipe for Key lime pie is quite simple with only a few ingredients, chefs can make it their own with a few tweaks. It is amazing how wildly varied commercial Key lime pies can be. (Photo by Gerald E. McLeod)

Key limes are little green orbs, made famous by the Florida Keys, but originally from the Orient. The Florida fruit is almost extinct and very few are actually grown in the Keys anymore. Mexican limes are midway in size between a regular or “Persian” lime and a Key lime. Key and Mexican limes are close cousins, but not exactly the same even though some people will try to tell you otherwise. I’ll accept either in my Key lime pie, but I won’t accept a mix.

Between May and August of this year I tried as many Texas Key lime pies as I could. I’m sure I didn’t come close to finding all of them, but my search continues.

Slices were used in this very unscientific study when the whole pie wasn’t available. Key lime pie had to be a on the bakery’s or restaurant’s regular menu to be included, not an occasional special. The baker also couldn’t have an Austin address; after all, this is a travel column.

All of the places I visited tended to sell out of Key lime pie before the business day is over. Before making any long-distance commitments, it is advisable to call ahead to reserve a pie. A quick phone call saved me from disappointment a few times.

This expedition of Key lime discovery began when my son mentioned that he wanted his favorite pie for his birthday cake. After 46 years you’d think I would have known that his favorite pie is Key lime. That got me to thinking: Where are the best places in Texas to buy Key lime pie?

I used my family and friends as willing guinea pigs to sample the majority of the pies. Disparaging comments ranged from “too eggy” to “tastes like a mix” to “too custardy.” Only one pie got a resounding “yuck” from Matthew, age 8, who could be very dramatic in his displeasure for a pie. His opinions were scored as up or down, not his actual quotes.

The most recurring comment was that the pie wasn’t tart enough. So, heads up pastry chefs, America wants their Key lime pies to be just short of sour.

Field Notes

I visited these 11 bakeries (presented in alphabetical order) over about four months. I don’t think it will be difficult to figure out which ones were the judges’ favorites. I tried to include a balanced judgment even when my opinion varied from the group’s view.

Only one of the original three Jucker brothers is still alive, but the bakery they started in 1955 has become a Houston institution. If an affair is truly special then it deserves baked goods from the family-run Three Brothers Bakery. The ovens are at the Braeswood Blvd. location. (Photo by Gerald E. McLeod)

Three Brothers Bakery:
4036 S. Braeswood Blvd.; 12393 Kingsride Ln.; 4606 Washington Ave.; Houston. www.3brothersbakery.com.
Good lime flavor, but more sweet than tart. The whipped cream topping is thicker than the pie filling. According to the American Pie Council this is the best Key lime pie in America in 2017 by an independent bakery. Pro tip: Great selection of pastries; be sure to try the hamentashen cookies, similar to a Jewish shortbread kolache. $20.95 whole, $6.95 slice.

Bird Bakery:
5912 Broadway, San Antonio; 7 Highland Park Village, Dallas. www.birdbakery.com.
I got the last two 6-inch Key lime pies on a Saturday afternoon. They looked like Mexican flan with a nutty crust on the bottom instead of graham crackers. One of the better pies we tried with high ratings from the group. Pro tip: This is also a great sandwich shop beside the delicious baked goods. $6.95 mini whole.

Collin Street Bakery:
Corsicana, Waco, Lindale, Greenville. www.collinstreet.com.
Flavorful, with only a slight tartness and a coarse-ground graham cracker crust. Pro tip: This bakery is not just for fruitcakes. $13 whole.

Koffee Kup Family Restaurant:
300 W. 2nd St., Hico. www.koffeekupfamilyrestaurant.com.
Good thickness, but kind of flat flavor. Comes with whipped cream topping if you’d like. $20.56 whole, $5.40 slice.

Luby’s Cafeteria:
Multiple locations. www.lubys.com.
This is a strange inclusion with the mostly independent businesses, but the San Antonio-based company makes a really good Key lime pie. It has a thick layer of filling over a crushed chocolate cookie crust. $19.99 whole.

Maxine’s Main Street Café & Bakery:
905 Main St., Bastrop. www.maxinescafe.com.
Very good. Has a tartness that stays with you. Possibly the tartest of the group. The waitstaff finished the last piece of Key lime pie after I left. No topping, just Key lime goodness. $22 whole, $3.75 slice.

Marilyn Bush built her bakery one pie and cookie at a time. The little shop out in the country is open three days a week and only has outdoor seating. Along with great baked goods, the chicken salad sandwich is top notch. (Photo by Gerald E. McLeod)

Mrs. Bush’s Pie Company:
14325 FM 306, Canyon Lake.
Nice green color and the frosting doesn’t detract from the tartness. Received high marks from almost everyone. Tends to sell out by early afternoon, so make your reservation before you go. Pro tip: Try their Texas pecan pie and chicken pot pies. $12 whole.

Naegelin’s Bakery:
129 S. Seguin St., New Braunfels, www.naegelins.com.
Sweet and runny with a thick crust and a hard shell of frosting. Not tart at all. The oldest bakery in Texas was a disappointment. Pro tip: The cinnamon rolls were great. $12.95 whole.

Proud Pie:
3522 S. Mason Rd., Katy, www.proudpie.com.
The Pierhouse Key Lime Pie recipe originated at the Pier House Resort and Spa in Key West. The yellow filling is not bad, but not tart enough. It also has a thick layer of whipped cream-like topping that mellows it out too much. Pro tip: This little coffee shop is a great stop for pie, quiche, or coffee. $32 whole, $5.75 slice.

Wimberley Pie Company:
Wimberley, www.wimberleypie.com.
The yellow-like-custard pie rated in the middle of the pack by the group. Don’t bother calling to reserve a pie because the staff don’t answer the phone. $13 whole.

Texas Pie Company:
202 Center St., Kyle, www.texaspiecompany.com.
This was the only one that came frozen. The thick frosting looked like mashed potatoes. The thin layer of filling received a few likes, but mostly not a favorite. $19.95 whole.

Gerald McLeod has been traveling around Texas and beyond for his "Day Trips" column for more than 25 years. Keep up to date with his journeys on his archive page.