Day Trips: The Quarters at Presidio La Bahía, Goliad
Visit the spirits of Texas history at centuries-old lodging
By Gerald E. McLeod, Fri., Feb. 24, 2023
The Quarters at Presidio La Bahía outside of Goliad lets guests spend the night with the spirits of Texas history.
The two-bedroom apartment is comfortable, if not a bit rugged. The lodgings in the former priests' quarters has a living room with a fireplace, a kitchen with most modern conveniences, ample heating, and access to the grounds after the museum closes.
The woman at the front desk said the electricity was a little wonky since a recent power outage. The lighting was at the level of candles and oil lamps, so it was nice having a flashlight handy.
Seeing Our Lady of Loreto Chapel, one of the oldest churches in America, in the shifting light during our visit was like watching a series of paintings outside the apartment's back door.
While no apparitions were seen during my visit, the shadow of nearly three centuries of human occupation was an ever-present sensation.
The Spanish established the stone presidio on the San Antonio River in 1749, and the 2-foot-thick walls were rebuilt in the 1960s. The fort figured in every armed conflict to wrestle Texas from Mexico, but became most famous for the Goliad Massacre.
On Palm Sunday in 1836, the Mexican army executed Col. James Fannin and at least 342 prisoners. Most guests have not reported in the guest book seeing any ghosts of the Texian soldiers.
The Quarters at Presidio La Bahía has a special place in Texas history. For more information, go to presidiolabahia.org. The lodgings are often reserved months in advance, especially on weekends. As one of the oldest municipalities in Texas, Goliad is loaded with historic places to visit, and the presidio will host a living history program of the Goliad Massacre next month, March 25-26.
1,641st in a series. Everywhere is a day trip from somewhere: Follow “Day Trips & Beyond,” a travel blog, at austinchronicle.com/daily/travel.
