People often ask me where to find a really tasty French wine. But, inevitably, they add this little request, “And keep it affordable.” Yikes.
One of the great bargains in all of red wine is French Cahors, a wine made from primarily from Malbec and hints of Tannat and/or Merlot and grown in a ragged, rocky soil of Southwest France. Historically, Cahors wines needed a very long time in the bottle before they became drinkable, and even then, they required cool weather and a meal composed of huge roasts or stews. Because of these requirements, Cahors stayed relatively inexpensive.
My first experience with Clos La Coutale Cahors ($18) came courtesy of wine experts Leonard Joseph and Sue Carter at their Westlake shop, The Cellar. The wine was medium bodied with meaty aromas. Carefully stored, these wines improve for many years after harvest. Winemaker Philippe Bernède and importer Kermit Lynch swear the wines last as long as Bordeaux!
When the weather allows it, consider an hours-long braised meat recipe (cassoulet is ideal) and enjoy the fact that there are few wines that are this food-friendly. Also, be aware that this version of Malbec is less fruit driven than the Argentine or Texas versions. If you like to do comparative tastings, try the Coutale versus Becker’s Reserve Texas Malbec ($40) and Zuccardi’s “Concreto” Malbec Paraje Altamira, Mendoza Argentina ($40). The last two wines are big and fruity, so they go best with burgers and barbecue.
This article appears in October 27 • 2023.
