Kermit Lynch is one of the very finest importers in the U.S. Luckily, his company has a strong presence here in Central Texas. This is about one of the unsung heroes of his portfolio.
Clos La Coutale ($18/btl) is a deep, rich, red wine from France close to the town of Cahors. If that area doesn’t ring a bell, it is in the southwest part of France about 60 miles north of Toulouse and 100 miles east of Bordeaux. Baby boomers and older might remember Cahors as an area with tough, chewy wines that took forever to age into something drinkable. Back then, the tradition was to buy lots of wine you like, then lay it down in the cellar until it tasted good. Now that most people drink a wine on the same day they buy it, the winemakers of Cahors have developed strategies to help make their wines more attractive in their youth. The people of Clos La Coutale have had plenty of time to figure this out since the family of owner/winemaker Philippe Bernède has owned the vineyards since before the French Revolution.
Like most of the wines of Cahors, Clos La Coutale is primarily made from Malbec. That grape is known locally as Cot. Next time you want to have some fun at a wine shop or restaurant, order a bottle of Cot and see what kind of looks you get. In any case, Bernède has focused on Malbec, but also found that adding a touch of Merlot to the blend makes for a more palate-friendly wine while still maintaining its exceptional ability to get better as it ages. This is wine for folks who think the traditional ways aren’t just old-fashioned, but instead are simply the correct ways. There’s no winemaker trickery here, just good grapes from old vines, crushed gently and loved into submission.
One of its nicest characteristics is that it changes dramatically over the course of a dinner, getting better and better as it sits open. The wine starts like a tart strawberry and ends with a rich, unctuous mouthfeel and spicy aromas. It is ideal with Cassoulet (be sure to try it with the duck leg!) or a grilled ribeye.
This article appears in October 12 • 2018.
