Fèvre Winemaker Didier Séguier Credit: Photo Courtesy of the Winery

Now that it’s September – a month with an “R” in it – it’s time to enjoy the great Gulf oysters with wine. I have three quick recommendations.

First would be Picpoul de Pinet Hugues Beaulieu ($12), for its combination of bright, acidic flavors and reasonable price. It is so refreshingly acidic that you really need to have food with it, and raw oysters with a light vinaigrette are a perfect choice.

Fèvre Winemaker Didier Séguier Credit: Photo Courtesy of the Winery

Credit: Photo Courtesy of the Winery

If your party is full of Chardonnay lovers (which it probably is unless it’s a bunch of somms), the William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux SEA Limited Edition 2017 ($25) is light enough to support the oysters instead of dominate them, but still loaded with varietal flavors. It also has a wet steel and mineral nose that melds like magic with oysters.

Finally, one of the most festive bottles of wine on the planet is Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad Cava ($22). It comes in a gorgeous bottle with a massive pewter base and is rich and toasty enough to sip by itself, but its dry, citrusy finish and luxurious bubbles make it a great wine for sipping.

By the way, if you ever want to throw a nice big party, hire a shucker from one of your favorite restaurants to come in on their day off. Then, go to a seafood wholesaler like Quality Seafood and buy a box or more of 80-100 fresh Gulf oysters for $65. This way, it runs about $8/dozen and you will know exactly how fresh they are because you’ll have the date on them.

One last thing: The whole bit with oysters and an “R” in the month is old news and has to do with wild oysters. Most Gulf oysters are farmed, so they have little variation from season to season. So next summer, dig in without any concerns.

This article appears in September 28 • 2018.

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Wes Marshall is the author of What's a Wine Lover To Do? (Artisan) and The Wine Roads of Texas (Maverick), as well as the Executive Producer of the PBS television series of the same name. Wes has written for The Austin Chronicle since 1999, covering wine, cocktails, food, and travel.