J Vineyards & Winery opened for business in 1986, but it was hardly a bunch of newly rich Silicon Valley entrepreneurs looking for an excuse to drink more and more often.
The founder was Judy Jordan, daughter of the founder of Jordan Winery, one of the California wine industry’s iconic labels for Cabernet and Chardonnay. She wanted to have a premier sparkling wine label and wanted it to be hers, not the family’s. The winery eventually added Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to its portfolio. All of their wines were considered to be key players in the exploding premium wine marketplace.
One of her greatest contributions was when Ms. Jordan decided to start making Pinot Gris. Any of our readers who know the grape are probably already transfixed by its addictive aromas and bracing acidity. This is much bigger and more profound wine than the normal Pinot Grigio you see in most post-millennial watering holes. After about 30 years of steering her winery towards multiple successes, Ms. Jordan sold to E & J Gallo, cementing her status as a wealthy entrepreneur who had made the big time on her own merits.
Today’s version of J Pinot Gris costs just $14. Winemaker Nicole Hitchcock uses techniques usually reserved for far more expensive wines. The outcome is different from versions you might find in the grape’s normal best areas like Oregon or France’s Alsace. This wine mixes an almost chewy mouthfeel with a light, tongue-tickling acidity. Seafood fans will enjoy it with an olive oil-rich linguine and clam sauce. Meat lovers should try it with a braised pork shoulder. I personally love the wine with tacos carnitas. It also goes beautifully with just a little cheese and conversation with someone you love.
This article appears in August 24 • 2018.
