I try to focus on wines under $20, and luckily, the good folks at Paso Robles’s Tablas Creek have a wine that barely squeaks under at $19.99. But only when it’s on sale.
As usual at this esteemed winery, Tablas Creek’s Patelin de Tablas is a blend of Rhone grapes, specifically Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Imagine someone took a nice, dense blackberry juice, then took out all the sugar and added a hint of black pepper. As should be obvious by the description, this is wine made for grilled meats.
For those of you rolling in money, or at least devoted to higher expenditures, Tablas Creek’s Tête de Cuvée (French for our best stuff) is Esprit de Tablas ($55). It is made with similar grapes, albeit with more of the earthiness of the Mourvèdre and less of the berry aromatics of the Syrah. Try it with Cassoulet, or, if you can find a French person (preferably a local chef) who is willing to go to the effort, it would be a glorious wine to have with Friands Foie Gras. It would also be delicious with a well made hamburger.
I can’t claim to have tasted everything Tablas Creek makes, but the wines I have tried over the last two decades have been spectacular. It is always a winery to watch.
This article appears in June 22 • 2018.


