Salt and Pepper Anything at T & S

10014 N. Lamar, 339-8434

Daily, 11am-3pm; also, Wednesday-Monday, 5pm-1am; Tuesday, 5-10pm
T & S Seafood Restaurant is 45 miles and one hour from my home. And I don’t mind the drive. I share this piece of trivia with you so you’ll know how much I adore their Salt and Pepper Seafood. When I want the infinite pleasure of sizzling my taste buds until they cry for help, I get in the car and travel all the way to T & S. Then, depending on how rich I feel, I order either the Salt and Pepper Mixed Seafood (shrimp, squid, and scallops for $9.50) or the Salt and Pepper Soft Shell Crabs ($13.95). No matter which I get, the same scrumptious presentation awaits. A delicious batter with ingredients that remain a secret (a minuscule amount of coconut, perhaps?) and a sauce made from oil, garlic, salt, and thin-sliced fresh green and red jalapeños, all resting on a bed of wilted greens. The first bite brings the fresh smells and sweet flavors of the ocean. Linger over it for a moment, and you’ll find every square centimeter of your tongue enlivened. Then the heat hits — just enough to start feeling sweat trickling through your scalp. From there, every bite gets better and better. I might as well try to stop a roller coaster by dragging my feet as stop without cleaning the plate. There’s a reason that lots of Austin’s best chefs go to T & S on their day off: great food at reasonable prices. If you love picante flavors and fresh seafood, don’t miss this dish.

This article appears in August 22 • 2003.

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Wes Marshall is the author of What's a Wine Lover To Do? (Artisan) and The Wine Roads of Texas (Maverick), as well as the Executive Producer of the PBS television series of the same name. Wes has written for The Austin Chronicle since 1999, covering wine, cocktails, food, and travel.