Thai Passion
620 Congress, 472-1244
Lunch: Mon-Fri, 11am-2:30pm. Dinner: Sun-Thu, 5-9:30pm, Fri & Sat
5-10pm.
 photograph by John Anderson |
cuisines in the world, Thai cooking employs dozens of tantalizing herbs and
spices, layering dishes with a mosaic of complementary flavors and perfumes.
Although much of Thailand’s culinary tradition is linked historically to China,
Thai chefs have developed an entirely independent and equally complex cuisine
that relies to a great extent on a number of the country’s natural resources.
Thai chefs display a devotion to fish that their Chinese counterparts lack.
(The country boasts miles of coastline.) And rice and rice-based noodles are
more prominent as well, as Thailand is one of the world’s largest producers and
exporters of rice, with up to four harvests occurring each year. Instead of
incorporating the soy and oyster sauces utilized so readily in Chinese cookery,
Thai cooks favor nam pla, an aromatic fish sauce. And unlike the
Chinese, Thais also eat a wide variety of cool, crisp salads, many of them
intriguing blends of cooked meats and fragrant herbs such as mint or basil. In
fact, one of the most impressive characteristics of Thai cuisine is the
expertise with which contrasting flavors, from the fire of chiles to
palate-soothing herbs such as lemongrass or lime leaf, are united.
Austin is fortunate to have a number of Thai eateries, and the newest arrival
on the scene, the aptly-named Thai Passion in the heart of downtown, indeed
inspires affection. The restaurant’s interior is airy and bright, its stone
walls accented by waist-high partitions in primary colors topped by brass
railings wrapped intermittently with nautical-inspired rope trim. Tables are
set with fresh flowers, and several oversized, contemporary bas-relief in faux
plaster and brick portray Thai deities.
Those seduced by the country’s panoply of flavors will find the restaurant’s
menu, featuring all the expected favorites as well as several imaginative
specialties, equally provocative. The standard spring rolls,
pou-peer-sod ($3.25), proved to be exemplary in both taste and texture,
the pliable rice paper wraps bulging with vermicelli, dense shrimp, a bouquet
of crunchy crudit�s, and a healthy dose of fresh cilantro. The kitchen
slipped ever so slightly, though, when it came to the Tod Mun ($3.95), a
subtly spicy, deep-fried fish cake. Although long on flavor — an interesting
combination of flaked fish, green bean bits, and red curry, the cakes spent too
much time in the frying pan, resulting in a slightly burnt aftertaste.
Moving to the soup department, a cup of Tom Yum with shrimp ($2.75)
illustrated the kitchen’s talent with lemongrass. The steaming broth afloat
with herbs and vegetables was bold and pleasingly pungent, its disparate
flavors brought together harmoniously. The flavors in the cup of Tom Kha ($2.75), a richer concoction, were tasty, if less refined. Hints of tangy
lemongrass and cooling coconut milk were discernible, although the dominating
fire of Thai chiles threatened to overwhelm the preparation.
All of the entr�es I sampled at Thai Passion, from the rather ordinary
Thai chicken lemongrass grill ($10.95) to the house special Chu-Chee
Fish ($12.95), were received with pleasure. Thai Passion’s portions are
plentiful, and while a single dinner entr�e provides enough food for
two, the restaurant’s wealth of tempting offerings makes it difficult to
restrict yourself. Besides, Thai Passion’s obliging wait staff will gladly box
up any leftovers. In fact, following my visits they even added additional
scoops of steamed Jasmine rice for a complete, repeat performance at home.
Lovers of basil will appreciate the Pud Ped Basil, a spicy stir-fry
($8.95 with chicken, beef, or tofu; $9.95 with shrimp). While other strong
flavors, such as onion, bell pepper, and mushroom are present in the dish,
basil definitely grabs the spotlight. Dozens of dark green flecks, whole leaves
of the piquant herb, cover the platter, the entire melange brought together by
a dark, glaze-like sauce. The house special Larb ($9.95), a classic Thai
dish of ground meat and soft rice kernels mixed with onion, Thai dried pepper,
and lime, is another winner. Although a generous helping of beef, the larb goes
down like a light dish due in part to the refreshing presence of lime and the
potent kick provided by the peppers.
Palates in search of more straightforward flavors will be pleased with the
chicken lemongrass. Slices of moist, grilled chicken breast come heaped atop a
copious bed of shredded cabbage and are slathered with a creamy, amber-hued
peanut sauce. The sauce is of the stick-to-your-ribs variety — a Thai take on
simple comfort food. Prefer the exotic? Take my word for it that the ole’
familiar catfish has never tasted as good as it does once transformed into Thai
Passion’s special Chu Chee Fish. The earthy fish filet, cooked until just
flaky, makes perfect sense with a multi-dimensional sauce of yellow curry tamed
by coconut milk. Beyond the spice factor, the catfish is further elevated from
the ordinary by the generous addition of fresh basil and astringent lime
leaves. Bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and bell pepper add the final touches to the
fish.
With a menu boasting more than 45 different dinner selections, it’s difficult
to cover all the bases at Thai Passion, even in several repeat visits. But from
my experience, doing so is a mission well worth undertaking. Thai Passion has
mastered the art of pulling at the appetite’s heartstrings, turning out Thai
food provocative enough to lure you back again and again.
This article appears in March 28 • 1997 and March 28 • 1997 (Cover).