Hot weather requires cold wine, and with plenty of the heat in the forecast, what’s a red wine lover to do? Go pink! But not just any light-colored wine will make the grade. In Europe, the vast majority of rosé wines are bone-dry, which allows the acids to cleanse your palate and makes them perfectly refreshing drinks. Contrast that to what we see too often in the U.S.: sticky sweet drinks that taste nice in your mouth, but as soon as you swallow them, they leave a funky aftertaste that can only be washed away with more of the same. It’s a vicious cycle, too often leading to both sugar and alcohol hangovers.
This all started back in the 1960s, with Mateus and Lancer’s, followed by Annie Green Springs and dozens of other wines. By the 1980s, everyone was going nuts for White Zinfandel, the only wine that could tell two lies in two words. Thankfully, we’re seeing a renaissance of dry rosés, and the Austin market is brimming with great options.
Just like we try to support home grown initiatives like Boggy Creek Farm or Pure Luck goat cheese, you should give your first attention to our local winemakers, especially when they are making first class wines. I recently did a double blind judging of rosés that included the gold standard, French Tavel, and the No. 1 bottle was Spicewood Vineyards’ Rosé of Merlot ($11.99, only available at Central Market North and the winery), a delicious wine with bright cherry aromas and a flavor that goes beautifully with grilled meats. The other Texas wine that showed well at the event was Becker Vineyards’ Provencal ($12.95), a natural with grilled salmon.
One of the best rosés made in the U.S. comes from those wacky folks at Bonny Doon. Their Vin Gris de Cigare ($11) is based on the French Rhone rosés and the fun label is derived from the 1954 law in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape denying Zeppelins (flying cigars) the right to land in the vineyards. The label shows a Zeppelin shooting a ray-gun blast on the vineyard. Despite the fun, there is excellent wine in the bottle, delicious with a bowl of bouillabaisse or shrimp on the barbie. This wine wines a double gold for picnickers: Not only does it taste great, it comes in a screw-top bottle!
Finally, the top of the heap, the greatest rosé in the world is Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé ($35). As much as I love the other wines, there is no comparison to this wine, with its virtues of powerful aromas, perfectly balanced flavors and rich long lasting finish. The grapes come from the French coast, just east of Marseilles, where it gets just about as hot as it does in Austin. The perfect pairing: Go on a Saturday morning to Boggy Creek and pick up some tomatoes and basil, crumble a little fresh Pure Luck goat cheese in, and make yourself a light vinaigrette to dress the salad. Accompany it with a garlicky grilled ciabatta, pop open the Tempier, and experience the best summer rosé you’ll ever have.
This article appears in July 29 • 2005.
