Thanksgiving is here, and it’s time to pick up some wine for your meal. We’ve been tasting lots of wines to help develop recommendations for your table. We were forced into this tasting task by the complicated food-wine pairing criteria during the holiday season. Walk into any house, and you’re likely to find turkey or ham stacked up next to a sweet cranberry sauce, candied carrots, and savory stuffing. And what do you do about the pumpkin pie? The combo of foods spells impending calamity with most wines. Here are a few readily available wines that work.
One wine that goes with almost everything is champagne. Everyone loves the festive sound of a cork popping, but most folks never try it with food. Truth is, champagne is a great food wine. Avoid wines whose labels say “charmat,” “bulk,” or “transfer” on the label. These wines are guaranteed to produce splitting headaches and a vow of sobriety. Stick instead with labels claiming “Methode Champenoise:” wines like Korbel Extra Dry ($10), Gruet Blanc du Noir ($12), or Domaine Chandon Brut ($14). If you want the real thing (i.e., French) go for Veuve Clicquot ($30) or Perrier-Jouet ($32).
There are a few white wines that go well with all manner of holiday fare. Nearly any wine from France’s Alsace region would be a good choice. Some of the best low-price options include Josmeyer Pinot Blanc ($12), Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Reserve ($14), or Hugel Riesling ($15). If you want to splurge on a more expensive wine, try the Trimbach Cuvee Frederic-Emile Riesling ($40), a wine with enough flavor and aroma to match well with anything on the holiday plate. Texas-style Sauvignon Blanc also does well, and we have two great versions right here in the Texas Hill Country. Try either Spicewood Vineyards’ ($9) or Fall Creek’s version ($9).
The classic red wine recommendation for Thanksgiving is merlot. Some California merlot makers are selling wine at prices necessitating a second mortgage, but we found a few inexpensive winners. Pepperwood Grove Merlot ($7), Bogle California Merlot ($9), Clos du Bois Merlot ($16), and Flora Springs Merlot ($20) are all worth drinking. Closer to home, Texas winemakers have had great luck lately with merlot. Messina Hof’s Barrel Reserve Merlot ($10) and their gold-medal champ Private Reserve Merlot ($17) are both winners. Two other great Texas reds for the holidays are Llano Estacado’s Red Meritage ($9) and Alamosa Grenache “Akashic Grenachic” ($13).
Red wine fans might also want to try a fruity pinot noir. They go perfectly with turkey or ham and match well with anything that includes cranberries. Our favorite moderate-priced versions include Pepperwood Grove Pinot Noir ($7), Beaulieu Vineyards Coastal Pinot Noir ($12), and Kenwood Russian River Pinot Noir ($16). If you want a taste of what the millionaires are drinking at a price that’s a bargain for the quality, try the Davis Bynum Allen Russian River Pinot Noir ($30), a totally organic wine with enormous fruit and enough complexity to match everything you’re served, right through to the pumpkin pie.
This article appears in November 22 • 2002.
