The old adage about “white wine with fish” was rightfully debunked years ago. But like most maxims, there’s a seed of truth there. So, though we can point you to some superb Pinot Noirs that will mate perfectly with fish (Siduri is the first that comes to mind), we’re going to stick with whites today.
The single most exciting American white wine I’ve tasted this year is the 2000 St. Supery Meritage ($22). Meritage (frequently pronounced incorrectly; it rhymes with “heritage”) is a term developed to help winemakers who want to produce wines from traditionally French grapes and with no single grape providing over 75% of the content. In this case, the wine is 56% Semillon and 44% Sauvignon Blanc. This combination of grapes is popular in France and Australia, but no one in the U.S. has pulled it off as well as St. Supery. Their version has a slightly smoky but fresh flavor wedded to a bracing pineapple flavor. Try it with Chilean Sea Bass topped with a little sautéed fennel.
If $22 is too much, try the 2000 (or soon to be released 2001) St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc ($12). One of the best examples of Sauvignon Blanc in California, it has powerful fruit flavors and works equally well as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to dinner. There is just enough citrusy acid to cut through a rich sauce, but plenty of fruit to wake up the tongue. It’s especially nice with Thai seafood dishes.
For you Chardonnay lovers, the buy of the year, so far, is the 2000 Columbia Crest Columbia Valley Grand Estates Chardonnay ($10). The weather in the Columbia Valley in Washington bears more resemblance to France than California, and the wines show it. This particular wine is rich and full-bodied without being a fruit-bomb. But it needs to share the table with a big, rich dish, like a freshly steamed Maine lobster dipped in tarragon butter.
Finally, let’s not forget our own homegrown wines. Two favorites are the Spicewood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ($10) and the Becker Vineyards Fumé Blanc ($11), both excellent food wines. Sample them with grilled Gulf Snapper or Redfish topped with just lemon and butter.
In a few months, the new vintage of both the Alamosa Vineyards and Becker Vineyards Viognier will be released. These two wines show that Texas is capable of producing superb versions of the French grape (the main French version, Condrieu, usually costs north of $50). I’ve recently tasted barrel samples from Becker and it should be superb. I also had an opportunity to taste some older Alamosa Viognier and it ages beautifully. A great seafood match for both wines is Gulf Shrimp cooked on the barbecue. It’s also a perfect way to show your skeptical friends how well Texas wine and Texas food unite.
This article appears in March 22 • 2002.
