The Rhone Valley of France is home to some of the best wine makers in that country. Yet, for some reason that I’ve never been able to fathom, their wines sell at a steep discount, in terms of quality, to the wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux. It’s a wonderful opportunity for us, though: high-quality wines at bargain prices.
The main grapes used in making red wines in the Rhone are Syrah and Grenache. Syrah has a smoky, berry-like character, while the Grenache puts out an aroma of fresh ground black pepper. Like a lusciously ripe blackberry with a sprinkle of pepper on it, Rhone wine tastes odd to some palates, but once you’ve come under its spell, you’ll start ransacking stores and restaurants hunting for it. We have a number available around Austin at under $10 that are steals in the world of fine wines. When I have a large party, my favorite budget pour is the Jaboulet Parallèle “45” ($8), an unfussy but delicious wine. The Jaboulet family make wines up to $200 a bottle. Their “45” is a real gift at the price.
Just up the road, the Perrin family owns some of the most important wineries in France. They produce two budget lines, LaVieille Ferme ($7) and Perrin Reserve ($9). The Ferme is made just outside of the Rhone, but using the normal grapes. Drink it just slightly cool, about 60-65 degrees, and you’ll marvel at how good it is for the price. Moving up their ladder, the Perrin Reserve is peppery and thick and an almost ideal Texas wine. It goes down great with a hamburger or barbecue.
If you don’t mind spending a little more, the Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets ($16) is more than twice as good as their Parallèle “45” and should be scaring the bejeezus out of a lot of California wine makers. For a splurge, one of the best wines from the Rhone that is priced for mere mortals is the Domaine du Pesquier Gigondas ($19), an exemplar of what the makers in the Rhone do best.
The Rhone natives consume rivers of red wine, mostly dispensed from pumps (like you use for filling up your car) into plastic jugs (like you use for storing gasoline) and selling for the princely sum of about $1.50 per liter. Even this wine, when drunk young, can be delicious. What we get in the U.S. is usually of higher quality than the pump wine. But there are a million winemakers in the Rhone; some are miniscule with unknown pedigrees. Prices and quality range from ridiculously low to ridiculously high. You can pay $250 for a bad bottle or $7 for a good one. As usual, your best line of defense is a trustworthy store with knowledgeable staff.
Texas Hill Country Wine Lovers’ Trail
It’s time again for the Valentine’s Day festivities at the various Hill Country wineries. This year, on February 9 and 10, 15 of them will open their doors, pour their wines, and show you around. As every year, this is a sterling opportunity to see what’s growing in our own back yard. And see it you should. Texas wine is here for the long run. First, the quality gets better every year. Even more important, the state has finally seen fit (thanks in large part to Agricultural Commissioner Susan Combs) to support the industry instead of thwart it.
Each of the wineries offers something special to grab your interest. Sweet lovers should be delighted at the offerings at Becker Vineyards (hand-made chocolate and merlot), Fredericksburg Winery (wine-filled chocolates), Sister Creek Vineyards (homemade chocolate with merlot), Spicewood Vineyards (a wide range of desserts by our own Virginia B. Wood), and Texas Hills (Dr. Chocolate and merlot). New wineries Chisholm Trail and Flat Creek will be offering a meal, as will Fall Creek and Texas Hills (reservations an absolute must). Alamosa and Pillar Bluff will be sharing space at Rose Hill Manor, a lovely place to taste some wonderful new wines. For full info: Check www.texaswinetrail.com/calendar.htm or call 800/868-2321.
This article appears in February 1 • 2002.
