Under $10
N. V. Francois Montand Blanc de Blanc ($8.99)
Score: 86
Sparkling wine is always an apt summer accompaniment. By itself or with food, everyone enjoys the sound of a popping cork. Problem is, most true champagnes now cost over $25 a bottle. This little wine from Gascogne in Southwest France provides heaps of flavor and enjoyment at a modest price. While you sacrifice subtlety, at $8.99 a bottle, at least you can afford to have lots of simple fun. The wine makes for perfect before-dinner entertainment. For a special occasion, add a tablespoon of Chambord. Or sprinkle a little bitters on a sugar cube, place in the bottom of the glass, and pour the wine over.
1996 Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva ($8.99)
Score: 86
Big, tooth-dying red wine from the boot heel of Italy. This is most definitely not a quaffing wine. It is a primitive, old-style Italian concoction that really needs food, preferably primitive, old-style Italian food. A superb pairing to pasta with a good, thick tomato sauce and spicy Italian sausage.
Over $10
1998 Murphy-Goode Fumé Blanc ($11.99)
Score: 88
Fumé Blanc (also known as Sauvignon Blanc) tends to taste vegetal but in the hands of a good winemaker, it has a citrusy tang with some pineapple flavors. Murphy-Goode’s version emphasizes the grapefruit-citrus aspect. It is a perfect match with shellfish. Steamed mussels with a little bit of curry in the sauce are a peerless complement to this wine.
1998 St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel ($21.99)
Score: 94
St. Francis Zin is a standard in our house. It’s a big, thick fruity red wine with lots of vanilla from the new oak barrels. Until recently, St. Francis was nearly impossible to get in Austin. Thanks to a bumper crop of grapes and the constant nagging of the Austin club The Original Zinners the wine is now readily available hereabouts. I’ve even seen it on sale for as low as $18.99. Grill a steak, bake a potato, toss a salad, and pour a glass of St. Francis Zin for a peek at heaven.
This article appears in September 1 • 2000.
