Little feels more like Austin did a decade ago than Sunday gospel brunch at Maria’s Taco Xpress. Even after the long battle over relocation, the slapdash feel of the building, the view from the upper deck, and the local memorabilia splashed all over the walls gives you that indefinable South Austin vibe.
But old South Austin vibe is especially strong on Sundays, when young and old and everything in between line up for Maria’s breakfast tacos, frozen margaritas in plastic cups, and bottles of beer. Large communal tables are filled with families and groups of friends. Dogs on leashes hang out underfoot, and kids in strollers kick their little legs in time to a heartfelt Dusty Springfield cover. Lines are long for Sunday brunch, but everyone is in a jovial mood. There is lots and lots of dancing.
A new highlight to Sunday Brunch: a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar on the upper deck is open for guests to doctor up their Tito’s vodka any way they like. Pretty smart, actually, as there are few drinks that people are as particular about as a bloody. With every conceivable ingredient available laid out on a covered pool table, guests can measure their own level of spice, celery salt, black pepper and garnish with stuffed olives, black olives, pickled okra, and, even the old must-have, celery stalks. Other vodkas are available, of course, but homegrown Tito’s feels right at Maria’s.
Take a spot in line, order your Migas breakfast tacos plate, and mosey upstairs to fix your bloody before wedging into a spot in front of the band. Soon you will be transported to an earlier time in our town: where tie-dye clad grandmas clutching a beer and shaking their stuff was as cool as it got, and refried beans and corn chips were heaven on a plate.
Maria’s Taco Xpress
2529 S. Lamar 444-0261
www.tacoxpress.com
This article appears in March 1 • 2013.
