Kiki’s Mexican Restaurant in El Paso is a little place with a big – and well-deserved – reputation. The West Texas border town is gaining recognition for its bountiful food establishments. This neighborhood eatery with wood-paneled walls covered in photographs, awards, and newspaper clippings is one of the reasons.
In 1976, Paula Yardeni opened the restaurant named after her daughter, serving a Norteño style of home-cooked Mexican food. For years Kiki’s was a closely guarded secret among locals. Since longtime manager Hector Latigo took over ownership, the cafe’s eminence has expanded to national recognition. Lunch and dinner peaks can be overwhelming, but other times are relaxed and friendly.
The specialty of the house is the “Machaca,” a mixture of meat, onions, tomatoes, cheese, and egg, covered in a layer of white chili con queso. It’s a casserole-like dish that originated on the ranches of northern Mexico as a breakfast meal that stuck to the ribs.
Another favorite, Kiki’s mole sauce is as smooth and creamy as brown silk. If you’re keeping score, this is one to try. Made with chocolate, peanut butter, and chiles, the sauce has an authentic hint of sweetness with a slight burn.
Kiki’s Mexican Restaurant is in El Paso’s Manhattan Heights Historical District at 2719 N. Piedras, an easy off-and-on exit from I-10. The cafe is near the entrance to Scenic Drive through the Franklin Mountains and Wyler Tramway State Park. They’re open daily; for hours, call 915/565-6713 or go to www.kikisrestaurant.com.
1,226th in a series. Collect them all. Day Trips, Vol. 2, a book of “Day Trips,” is available for $8.95, plus $3.05 for shipping, handling, and tax. Mail to: Day Trips, PO Box 33284, South Austin, TX 78704.
This article appears in January 23 • 2015.
