Cowgirl Dreams

Did you know baby deer can make a lot of noise? “That’s called a ‘bleep,'” says Twin Elms Guest Ranch owner Charlsie Browne. A baby deer, four days old, teeters around a makeshift pen, bleeping, much to the delight of several dogs, puppies, and teenagers. A very tame young male deer, Mr. Frank, shows no interest. This is his last day at Twin Elms. He has developed downy horns and has taken to butting, so he’s headed for a nearby exotic animal spread.

Twin Elms Ranch photograph by John Anderson

The clouds are heavy today, there probably won’t be a trail ride, but the high school choir kids from Dallas are happy, running around the grounds, checking out the animals, playing Ping-Pong and hanging out in the recreation room. Charlsie’s jukebox is spinning a good mix of new and old country. I’m watching Playboy, a handsome four-year-old quarter horse, frisk around his ample pen with his tail up. Twin Elms is a pleasant place to be, even on a drizzly day. I’m thinking how spectacular a sunny hill country morning must look here, especially from the back of a horse.

Twin Elms is a cowgirl’s dream, and a dream come true for Charlsie, who has loved the place most of her life. She attended a girl’s summer camp there from ages eight to 16, came back as a camp counselor when she was 17, and continued to visit the ranch over the years as she married, had a son, and started a successful business. In December, 1997, Charlsie sold her business in international freight forwarding and persuaded owner Mary Anderwald to sell Twin Elm. Charlsie took over running the ranch, and has been steadily making improvements and repairs, carefully keeping the spirit of this old-fashioned family dude ranch intact.

Twin Elm is the second oldest dude ranch in Bandera (the oldest being the Dixie Dude). The Elm’s handsome stone, stucco, and wood main house was built in 1935 and the first six guest rooms (and one bathroom) were constructed four years later. Frank and Mary Anderwald bought the place in 1952. Charlsie describes “Mr. Frank” (yes, namesake of above-mentioned young deer) as the “ultimate cowboy” and the spirit of Twin Elm. She keeps a corner of the old house as a memorial to him; his old chair, his hat, boots, and chaps.

Stage Stop Ranch photograph by John Anderson

Additions to the ranch have made Twin Elm a very hospitable retreat for families, weekenders, and groups up to 50. The pool, rec room, and riding facilities would keep any kid busy, and as Charlsie says, you can see from one end of the ranch to the other just sitting on the front porch of your cabin, so parents can relax, too. Twin Elm’s two experienced wranglers and Charlsie’s son handle the horseback riding (as well as a number of other responsibilities) and are experts at outfitting riders of a variety of ages and abilities.

The Medina River is a short walk from the cabins and is a fine, clear Texas river of the best sort. I sat on a cypress root hanging over a first-rate swimming hole and watched catfish, perch, and bass undulating in the current. Then I waded into a nearby field for one of my favorite activities: looking at plants. Then up a creek bed for more of the same, where I discovered ripe dewberries.

Rambling around Bandera in the Nissan King Cab, I made a pass through the Mayan Ranch, and can report that it has that rustic rock cabin goodness that I look for in my Hill Country hideaways. It’s perhaps more of a resort than Twin Elm. Many have heard of the Flying L Ranch, and, on brief inspection, I can say that’s the place to go if you want to golf. Flying L also has swimming and riding, so the kids will have plenty to do while you play.

I naturally had to check out the girls-only Desert Hearts Cowgirl Club, but had some difficulty finding the place. After sojourning through one gate all the way to the wrong ranch house and sitting for some time contemplating yet another wrong move, I knew I’d gotten it right when, after closing the big swing gate and looking around for mean dogs, I saw the signs “Butch Parking” and “Femme Parking.” Co-proprietor Lean Bean was busy constructing a stage cabana for an upcoming festival. I got ten to wander the property in the rain and can report that it’s a prime piece of Hill Country, complete with adorable spring-fed creek, many walking/riding trails, and a fine fig tree. Another dream come true, Desert Hearts Cowgirl Club offers riding, hiking, and camping, or you can enjoy the charming comfort of the cowgirl cabin, which sleeps four. Lean also directed me to check out the Medina Lake house that she and partner Jean Bean offer as a lakeside getaway. The Shady Lady Lakeshore Lodge, as it’s called, has a lovely view of the lake and a deck right on the water.

This article appears in May 21 • 1999 and May 21 • 1999 (Cover).

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