900 E. Seventh, 524-2809
Monday-Friday, 3pm-12mid; Saturday, 3pm-1am; full dinner menu served 4-11pm; closed Sunday
www.uncorkedtastingroom.com
Based on the name of the place, you’d expect a nice selection of wine, which is true. What you wouldn’t expect is the creative food and adventurous palate of the kitchen staff. Such as the steamed mussels in saffron tomato broth ($12), with a spicy sauce that had us grabbing the bread for a delicious dip. Or a nightly special, Moroccan spiced quail with spinach and crispy polenta cakes ($20). Actually, I wanted something a bit more substantial than quail, so I asked if they would use the same spices and sides, but substitute a beef tenderloin, which they did, for $2 extra. The rub on the steak was an intoxicating blend of several spices, including cinnamon, cumin, and black pepper, that matched beautifully with an Argentine wine, Crios Rosé of Malbec ($26). Our other main course was truffled mushroom and spinach risotto ($13). Both the rice and spinach retained a touch of texture that made the risotto very toothsome. To accompany the dinner, we ordered a side of olives, which included three different types, all of a very high quality. The kitchen’s only slip was overcooking the mussels a bit.
Uncorked offers several wine flights, some covering one grape in three locations, others with three different wines from one location. I was worried about a small place having a stout wine-by-the-glass program, since the quality of most wines declines after several hours, let alone several days. So I watched carefully and was happy to see the owner taking a taste from the bottle before sending me a glass. Overall, the wine prices are very fair. They also have some more obscure wines that are worth a buy: Francois Pinon Vouvray Chenin Blanc “Cuvee Tradition” ($44), Tenuta Maggiore “Sentito” Cortese ($26), and Buil & Giné “Giné Giné” Grenache/Carignan ($45).
Uncorked sits atop the hill at the northeastern intersection of I-35 and Seventh Street. You can sit at a window-side table or on the cute outdoor deck and enjoy a gorgeous view of the Downtown lights. Good background music and comfortable seating finish the very pleasing package. Warmly recommended.
This article appears in October 10 • 2008.