Okay, you’ve enjoyed dancing to polkas, cumbias, and rancheras for three
weeks now at some of East Austin’s finer hole-in-the-wall
conjunto/norte�o establishments. Now you say you need a little more room
to stretch out, something more like a dance hall. Well, head to 1523 Tinnin
Ford Road (just off of East Riverside and only two doors down from last week’s
romp at El Coyote) to El Pepe Polkas. It’s not quite a dance hall, but it’s
pretty spacious, with plenty of room to move around through the tables on your
way to the dance floor.
El Pepe Polkas is a pretty new club, and may be unfamiliar even to
experienced dancers. Antonio Villanueva threw open El Pepe’s doors only seven
months ago, with a mission to preserve the sounds he heard in his native
Mexico. He proudly declares this dedication on his business card, which
proclaims his venue to be
“La Catedral de la Musica de Acordeon y Bajo
Sexto.”
Although we heard a true Texas-style conjunto on our visit, Austin’s Los
Chomacos, Villanueva said he specializes in the flashier norte�o of
Northern Mexico, often bringing up touring bands from the Monterrey area. “I
want to bring good music for my people,” Villanueva says, meaning Mexican-born
Texans. “Tejano music is different. It’s a different crowd of people.” Although
Villanueva’s club is new, he has experience in the nightclub business, having
run the Rockin’ M lounge down near Lockhart for three years (where I spent one
of the better New Year’s Eves of my life watching the legendary Flaco
Jimenez).
Los Chomacos provided us with plenty of good dance music. The band features
a sturdy accordionist, although I was especially impressed with their drummer –
not something I normally notice. He had a set of tom-toms mounted on his trap
set, and hammered out some very funky, hip-shaking solos on the cumbias. The
band was weighed down a bit by the sound system, although I’m not sure if the
problem was in the speakers or the mixing; either way, it was a little too
bass-heavy. However, after a few songs (and a few beers for us), everything
smoothed out pretty well.
In the back, as is usually the case, there are a couple of pool tables when
you need a break from the dancing, and if you get hungry, the front parking lot
hosts a taco stand (unfortunately, we didn’t have time to sample its
fare).
Well, for the moment, this is the end of the conjunto/norte�o club
spotlight series, partly because I need a break to hear some other styles of
music on my Friday nights, and partly because I only know about these four
clubs (Happy Days Lounge #2, La India Bonita, El Coyote, and El Pepe Polkas).
I’m sure that there are other locations around town to hear some accordion and
bajo sexto, so If you have a favorite place that hasn’t been covered here, call
me at
474-0912. Please remember that I’m only interested in the old-style
stuff, not the newfangled Emilio-type of thing.
As stated when I started this series, this has been aimed more at white
lovers of the music (I doubt any Tejanos need help from a gringo with pathetic
Spanish skills), and I hope you’ll explore these places. As much as I enjoy
hearing conjunto at West Side clubs (and commend them for booking it), it just
doesn’t compare to the experience of being in the “natural” setting – sort of
like the difference between hearing Don Walser at Hole in the Wall versus the
Broken Spoke. If you like to dance, it’s a blast. – Lee Nichols
This article appears in June 23 • 1995 and June 23 • 1995 (Cover).