For decades, Sicily was known as a hot area producing chewy wines, but the lovely Syrah La Monaca comes from the highest hilltop on the Sallier estate, where the weather is just a slight bit cooler.

The area only gets about 25 inches of rain per year, and the vast majority of that comes outside of the primary growing seasons. On top of that, the soil has a huge component of sand. So hot weather, limited rain, and very porous soil means these vines are struggling all the time.

But that’s good news for those us who love intense red wines with lots of deep, dark berry flavors. Struggling vines lead to wonderful wines.

It also yields a Syrah that is different from the versions of the French Rhône Valley or Australia’s Barossa. La Monaca is dark with a rich mouthfeel and, as you might guess from the growing conditions, pretty high in alcohol at 15%.

This is wine to share with roasted or barbecued meats or a flavorful, rich stew. At a price of $35, this wine is competitive with other world-class Syrahs.

The La Monaca vineyard occupies just 4.4 acres, so the total production of this wine is only 1,250 cases. It has a limited distribution that makes it somewhat difficult to find, though if you have a wine shop that caters to your interests, the wine is easily available from the importer, Dalla Terra.

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Wes Marshall is the author of What's a Wine Lover To Do? (Artisan) and The Wine Roads of Texas (Maverick), as well as the Executive Producer of the PBS television series of the same name. Wes has written for The Austin Chronicle since 1999, covering wine, cocktails, food, and travel.