“What is a good substitute for hanger steak?”
“There is no substitute for hanger steak!”
This exchange, quoted verbatim, is indicative of the many pronouncements made by chef Pascal Beric of the French Culinary Institute in New York City as he taught a class of enthusiasts at the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival on April 7. Such a definitive statement could be considered the epitome of the legendary (if undeserved) suspicion that all French people are snobs, but Beric managed to make this statement and others like it merely undeniable truths he was willing to share. He was right, of course. There is no substitute for hanger steak, or good stock, or butter. Beric assured us that we needn’t use these items in copious amounts, although the results with comprised ingredients would be disappointing. Chef Beric delighted the packed room with his simple and incredible meal of grilled marinated hanger steak, artichoke and potato purée, caramelized endive, and baby carrots. Not to mention the plate of Smoked Stuffed Quail with Honey Jus, mache, and Grilled Fennel and Shallots in Red Wine. Each quite simple and each spectacular with attention to details, details, details. All right: I admit the boning of a quail doesn’t strike me as especially simple. But once it’s boned, you’re on easy street!
No doubt many of these items will be making appearances soon at dinner parties around town. If you’re lucky, you’ll be invited to one of these soirées, and if you’re doubly lucky, the finale will be one of the desserts prepared by chef Susan Lifrieri at the “A Duo of Desserts to Die For” class. Also of the French Culinary Institute, Lifrieri is of New York extraction with a decidedly East Coast sensibility. She and Beric share a passion for exceptional food. A pastry chef, Lifrieri’s technique is somewhat more precise. And while her one and a half hour class ran a bit long, it was a marvel that she demonstrated within that time an a) luscious Marscapone Cheesecake with Raspberries and Rhubarb Compote, b) a refreshing and amusing lime sorbet with strawberry sauce (in a sugar-rimmed margarita glass!) with almond meringues. Lifrieri’s desserts were as beautiful as they were delicious. No one left before the last sumptuous bite was devoured. And no one left without harboring fantasies of enrolling in the six-month culinary or pastry program and joining the ranks of artists like Beric and Lifrieri. There’s just no substitute for French cooking.
This article appears in April 21 • 2000.