Burger eaters don’t need to think twice; they assume that their sandwich of choice will come with an order of French-fried potatoes. Rare is the burger served sans fries, thanks to the trusty deep-fat fryer next to the grill. Making fries even from scratch is a relatively easy process (slice potato, fry, salt, drain, repeat), which probably accounts for a good deal of their popularity. Cooks love when wildly popular items are also simple to make.

However, the other part of the French-fried pantheon — lightly breaded onion rings — tend to be much less common than their starchy sibling. In addition to the cut-and-fry routine, preparation of o-rings often involves double-dipping the rings in milk or beer batter, then dredging them in flour before they hit the grease. Practical translation: increased time commitment and really sticky fingers. Many joints simplify the process by buying pre-breaded frozen rings, offering bagged FunYuns or pretending the dish doesn’t exist. Devotees of “the other fried side” quickly learn to the value of a simple question — “You make these here?” — before placing an order.

The prevalence of frozen rings makes the handmade variety that much more of a treasure. Here are a few of the better-crafted rings in town for those who play both sides of the fry pits.

  • Dirty’s: Lightly flour-dredged and quick-fried, the medium-sliced onion rings at Dirty’s emerge from the grease steaming and sporting a delicate, perfectly crunchy brown crust.
  • Hut’s: These towering wonders bear a striking resemblance to Wonder Woman’s bulletproof bracelets and appeal to fans of cornmeal rings. The portions are huge, so think twice before ordering rings and fries.
  • Fran’s: Also of the cornmeal variety, Fran’s rings cook a bit longer, making for a beautifully dark and crunchy coating. A small bag runs the irregular price of $1.42 — the perfect portion with a small order of skinny fries.
  • Shady Grove: Flecks of black pepper dot the Grove’s flour batter, which fries up nicely in that nether region between crunchy and pliable. The onion itself sports a pronounced, smooth sweet-ness that calls subtle attention to itself. — P.J.

This article appears in June 20 • 1997 and June 20 • 1997 (Cover).

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