Episode 6
Ruta Maya Coffee Company
Neighborhood: Warehouse District
Address/Phone: 218 W. Fourth (at Lavaca), 472-9638
Hours: Sun-Fri, 7am-1am; Sat, 24 hours
Munchables: Pastries
Standard Cup o’ Joe: A buck
Bean Source: Roasted on site
Crowd: Downtown office folk and open mike participants
Artwork: Murals a-go-go, current crucifixes and iconic art by Bruce Adams
Soundtrack: Stereolab, Curtis Mayfield, My Bloody Valentine, Del Dragons
Bonus Points: Eclectic live music and comfortingly high ceilings
The Room: When Ruta Maya Coffee Company moved into its current space at Fourth and Lavaca, the Capitol Theatre was still packing in audiences, upscale martini joints were a few years off, and the 2,000-square foot space didn’t have a lick of AC. The multipurpose space (previously a martial arts school) overlooked an underdeveloped commercial neighborhood that lacked a catchy name or unified identity. About five years later, the Warehouse District packs ’em in just about every night of the week — and Ruta Maya still doesn’t need climate control. One huge door (right where the loading dock used to be), a suitably high ceiling, and a good cross breeze do the trick, even in the dead of summer.
Now one of the older coffee joints in town, Ruta Maya uses its warehouse space for real-life industrial activity — roasting their own coffees for local restaurants, homegrown groceries, and on-site enjoyment. It’s literally one big room that’s taken on the best trappings of a multifunction entertainment complex, with weathered tables and an elevated stage for nightly live music. Off to one side, the chrome-and-green roaster emblazoned with the Mayan logo sits surrounded by burlap sacks of unroasted beans from Central and South American ports.
On any given evening, Ruta Maya also plays host to the most active stoop scenes in current-day Austin. The four-foot concrete loading dock and smattering of sidewalk tables overflow with crowds of musicians, writers, and too-young-for-the-bar-scene hangers-on. As nearby nightclubs and air-conditioned bars attract a post-workday hipster clientele, the Ruta Maya mob sits outside in the fresh air with a slow cup of home-roasted java and (in the words of Mr. Berry) no particular place to go. It’s traditional Austin power-lounging, without hints of vermouth or a velvet collar.
But for those who long for the Warehouse District in its pre-swankified days, the Ruta Maya crew still goes through their industrial paces on most mornings and serves coffee to a quieter, cooler room. As always, the big door is open, and the fans (“Heavy Duty High-Velocity Air Circulators”) are fully revved up as the biting aroma of roasting coffee fills the deserted district. But even in the summer, the mornings are good for the quiet and the cross breeze. Even if you’re trapped in office clothes, you may never miss the AC.
This article appears in September 17 • 1999.