I have always liked people, places, and things that are hard to define. Those things that are really in between things — that are neither this nor that — but that might be a little bit of both. Things that force one to think and pay attention, and to reconsider pre-existing frameworks. In the restaurant business we like to classify our subjects by food type: American, Italian, French, Chinese. But sometimes this can be a little misleading. Restaurants these days don’t always conform to the tired old categories. A little restaurant in Northwest Hills has been quietly defying classification and making a reputation on its own terms.
With a loyal following from Northwest Hills, Peony is one of those restaurants that nevertheless falls off the radar screen for the Austin public at large. Perhaps this is because it is so very hard to pin down. And yet, it is a perfect date restaurant, a great place to take parents, or a fun place to go when you are in the mood for cuisine that is a little different. With its muted lighting, gold highlighted walls, and quiet atmosphere, Peony feels thoroughly tony; yet the friendly service and clientele of regulars also make it a comfortable, familiar environment.
Peony calls itself an Asian restaurant, which is a partially apt description since the menu features foodstuffs from China, Japan, Thailand, Korea, the Philippines, and even central Asia. Owner Phoenix Pai has assembled a smidgen of everything she likes to cook and eat, including a rare assortment of gourmet teas. In addition to an ample selection of traditional Asian specialties, Peony offers up clever hybrids that defy ethnic categories. More often than not, these are French-influenced affairs with colorful names such as Rickshaw Steak (steak covered with Asian-spiced black pepper and vegetable sauce, $16.95), Yin and Yang Shrimp (shrimp in Szechuan sauce, paired with chicken in a cream sauce, $14.95), or King of Siam (salmon topped with seafood cream sauce, $14.95).
The menu is practically biblical in proportion. A family could eat there every night for a month and never get around to trying the sushi, for example, or the Peking Duck (must be ordered two days in advance). First-timers should be prepared to spend at least a half-hour in menu perusal, and even then making a decision between the Crispy Beef ($6.50), the Filipino Noodles ($8.95), or the Steamed Red Snapper ($14.95) can be heartbreaking. This is especially true when the dish that appears on the table is less than successful, as was the case with the Scallops in Garlic Butter ($7.95) I ordered one night. A rather thin butter sauce accenting less than perfectly fresh scallops made me wish I had chosen another of the hundred-plus dishes Peony has to offer.
At this restaurant, when it comes to ordering, I have discovered that trial and error is inherent in the process. I have learned what many regulars already know, that a few well-chosen favorites can be dangerously habit-forming. I like the Earthly Delight ($14.95), featuring two types of stir-fried lamb: Hunan lamb — made with spicy peppers — and Mongolian lamb — stir-fried with scallions. In both cases, the lamb is sliced thin, marinated, then stir-fried until barely cooked. Under less vigilant care, the lamb might be chewy, but Peony’s is, as its name implies, delightful.
The house wonton soup is truly exceptional, and makes the version served at most restaurants seem like a caricature. Peony’s, served with doughy, homemade dumplings, chunks of carrot and bamboo, all floating in a satiny broth, is a scrumptious reminder of why this soup is so iconic of Chinese cuisine. This is a soup that is elegant, clean, but altogether more than the sum of its parts.
Shrimp dishes are generally excellent. Whether it is a classic rendition of the well-known Sesame Shrimp ($7.95) or the trendy nouvelle-Chinoise-style Golden Gate Shrimp ($7.95) — lightly battered, tossed in mayonnaise and carp roe, and accompanied by candied walnuts — the kitchen always turns out fresh, carefully executed platters.
Less successful is Peony’s Cassoulet Chinois ($16.95). This hot pot — groaning with scallops, shrimp, lobster, and crab — should be delicious. But on the night I ordered it, the brown sauce was a little weak, the lobster and crab overcooked, and frankly, a little past their expiration date. Such are the dangers of trying to do too much. It is simply too difficult to a keep a kitchen that is well stocked with highly perishable items that may or may not be ordered by the customers.
Still, a meal at Peony is certainly an adventure, and a reminder that Asian foods don’t have to be traditional to be authentic. This restaurant serves some of the more creative Asian cuisine in town; it is a restaurant well worth getting to know. Its expansive menu, spanning not only multiple genres but also multiple price ranges, ensures that there’s something for everyone at Peony. 
This article appears in November 7 • 2003.
