Culinary Biographies
edited by Alice Arndt
Yes Press, 432 pp., $48
The American culinary revolution in the second half of the 20th century served as the catalyst for many changes: Culinary education came into prominence, and cooking for the public was elevated to the status of a profession rather than a trade; dining out became a new form of theatrical entertainment; active interest developed in regional cuisines and artisanal food products; and the serious study of foodways and culinary history emerged as disciplines. In the late Nineties, Houston culinary scholar Alice Arndt identified the need for an encyclopedic collection of the biographical information of the historic figures who shaped the culinary world. She invested almost seven years in bringing the idea to fruition. Culinary Biographies is Arndt’s compendium of biographical essays on 190 of the historic chefs, cookbook authors, farmers, legendary diners, home economists and nutritionists, restaurateurs, philosophers, physicians, scientists, writers, and others who’ve made major contributions to “the way we eat today.”
The biographical profiles were written by 88 experts, including the Chronicle‘s own MM Pack and Austin culinarian Glenn Mack. Once a subject’s culinary bona fides were established, Arndt’s only other criterion was that they be deceased. Each profile is paired with a photo, portrait, or drawing of the subject and comes complete with a bibliography of their publications, if any. In many cases, the biographies provide context and shading to the lives of famous people, while in others they reveal the fascinating histories and culinary connections of unheralded figures. The profiles are engaging and informative, detailing the lives of such diverse pioneers as Nicolas-Francois Appert (canning), Charles Goodnight (cattle ranching); Josephine Cochrane (automatic dishwashers), Louis Pasteur (food safety), Fred Harvey (roadside restaurants), and Julia Child (French cooking in America, PBS cooking shows).
Culinary Biographies is an important work of history and a worthwhile addition to any library. It is an invaluable resource for passionate students of food and cooking, as well as a thoroughly satisfying read for any history buff.
This article appears in May 26 • 2006.