2900 W. Anderson, 452- 8199
Mon-Fri, 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; 5:30-10:30pm Sat & Sun. One look at India’s cuisine reveals a palette of colors to please the eye:
mango, chartreuse, mustard yellow, burnt- orange,
and plum brown. This food gets its vibrant colors from traditional ingredients
like turmeric, tamarind, mint, cumin, and the occasional fruit, all featured
weekly in the Star of India’s Sunday evening buffet. (Of course, items on the
buffet are available any night from the well-arranged menu.)
. Perfectly cooked, lightly seasoned basmati rice and warm naan bread accompany
the buffet of at least 12 assorted items for a reasonable $7.95. Dishes include
Seekh Kabob (ground lamb), curry and tandori chicken, and Chana Masala (spiced
chickpeas). The lamb, featured also in succulent meatball form, is sensational,
crafted with care for tenderness and flavor. Their lean, bite-sized portions
encourage consumption with a dollop of saag paneer (creamed spinach) or a dip
into mint or tamarind chutney. The coconut tomato soup is light and
complementary to both the lamb and chicken. A good buffet item, it is delicious
hot or at room temperature, working to cleanse the palate after a large serving
of nearly raw turmeric- dyed
onions. Another popular item is the samosa, a traditional pastry pocket filled
with subtly spiced potatoes and peas. A bowl of sliced iceberg lettuce (odd
find here) garnishes the buffet’s heartier items with pleasing crispness, and
each dish stands well on its own (except for the iceberg and a black- eyed
pea salad with suitable, though uninteresting vinaigrette). Star of India’s
rice pudding and mango custard splendidly end the meal. No honey is sweeter,
nor silk smoother, than these rich desserts. By the spoonful, they fit in the
crevices of unavoidably full stomachs. However, even the most curry- hungry
eaters walk out too full for the fresh (and breath- freshening)
anise by the door. — Ronna N. Welsh
This article appears in January 19 • 1996 and January 19 • 1996 (Cover).