Despite my fancy tastes, I grew up on Domino’s Pizza. For years, I couldn’t answer how I liked my pies. Thin? Thick? New York? Chicago? I didn’t know, man. Whatever Domino’s is? These days, I’m still pretty pizza-agnostic. Different styles scratch different itches at different times.
But I was not expecting a cheeseless pizza to become one of my recent favorite slices.
“How can I enjoy a pizza without melty cheese this much?” I wrote in my notes during my second visit to Small’s Wine Bar, staring down a New Haven tomato pie. The crust crackled beneath the sparse toppings before giving way to a chewy, charred edge. The whole thing tasted simple yet deeply satisfying – a reminder that sometimes less truly is more.
After arriving in Austin in 2013 to work at Franklin Barbecue and later serving as executive chef at Bufalina, Connecticut native Kelsey Small launched Small’s Pizza as a roaming pop-up in 2021. The concept found a permanent home inside the Springdale General food court last fall before expanding with Small’s Wine Bar in May. The food stall handles daytime pizza cravings (and weekend bagels), while the wine bar creates a more date-night setting with dinner and drinks.
Tucked in the hallway behind the pizza counter, Small’s Wine Bar feels like the kind of neighborhood spot you might stumble into on a side street in Paris or Florence. Twinkling candles, a terra-cotta-tiled bar, shelves packed with natural wine bottles, stacks of vinyl records, and scalloped glass pendant lights soften the building’s industrial vibes.
The decor feels personal rather than overly designed. A Snoopy telephone sits among the vintage touches, with a framed photo of Mulder and Scully hanging casually beside the bar, because apparently even FBI agents need a good neighborhood wine bar. The records aren’t just decoration. Funk, soul, and old-school favorites spin through the speakers as conversation flows over glasses of wine, giving the space the energy of a cool friend’s living room with a record collection worth flipping through.
My husband and I arrived around 6pm on a Friday and snagged the last spots, sliding onto one of the wooden benches along the wall, which sadly weren’t super comfortable. Once the room fills up, the warm space and lively crowd turn normal conversation into a full-volume effort. I spent part of the night leaning across the table and shouting at my husband as nearby diners politely tried to determine whether we were arguing or simply losing our hearing (the latter, I swear!).
I was not expecting a cheeseless pizza to become one of my recent favorite slices.
Small’s wine menu keeps things approachable with natural bottles from France and Italy alongside Texas and California selections. The list moves through earthy reds, bright whites, and bottles that complement the rustic food without drifting too funky. A chilled Languedoc “Blouge” paired nicely with the pizza, while a Hill Country Grenache Blanc, classic Syrah, and California rosé rounded out the daily by-the-glass options. On a hot night, those lighter pours hit the spot.
Service depends a bit on the day. On that packed Friday, our server was friendly but understandably stretched thin, warning us that pizza would take about 30 minutes before we ordered everything at once and settled in with our wine. A slower Wednesday visit showed a different side. Our server brought extra bread without us asking, tucked our leftover pizza box behind the bar so it wouldn’t crowd the tiny table, and made the experience feel more personal.
The small plates and sandwiches rotate almost weekly, making return visits especially tempting. The tomato and peach panzanella – with grilled peaches, focaccia croutons, fresh basil, cucumbers, and bright balsamic dressing – captured the peak of Central Texas July. The flavors were all there, though the focaccia croutons leaned a touch too far past crisp into stale, and the plate needed a sprinkle more salt to make everything pop. The roasted carrots were the stronger dish, with a sweet caramelized bite, tender squash, and a deeply savory tomato puree. I only wished the pistachios served on top had been toasted for a little more depth and crunch.
The roasted eggplant dip was another standout: smoky and silky, with olive oil, chili crisp, and za’atar layered over the top. The accompanying sesame focaccia nearly steals the show with its airy interior and blackened crust. The grilled summer squash with Jimmy Nardello pepper sauce also captures what Small’s does well, balancing sweet peppers, subtle spice, parmesan, and fresh basil.
Small’s specializes in New Haven-style pies known for thin, chewy dough with a crisp base and deeply blistered edges. We ordered the Veggie Supreme on our first visit, not realizing guests could split pies half-and-half – a crucial piece of information for future dinners. The pie arrived covered with mushrooms, onions, peppers, green olives, mozzarella, and basil, but the fire-kissed crust was the real star. Even leftover slices stayed crisp the next morning.
The tomato pie is a must-order. Traditionally called a “plain pie” in New Haven, it skips mozzarella and lets the tomato sauce take center stage, layering thinly sliced garlic, oregano, olive oil, and pecorino over that spectacular, sweet base. A pizza without melted cheese should not work this well, yet every bite does.
On my second visit, I split a vodka sauce pie with that glorious tomato version. The vodka side, topped with fresh and shredded mozzarella, pecorino, and black pepper, was rich and comforting, but I immediately craved that sauce over fresh pasta. Small’s already offers rotating pasta specials, and after seeing a summer corn and ricotta tortelli pop up on Instagram the day after my visit, I felt that familiar FOMO pang.
The desserts echo the restaurant’s vintage touches. The peach pie sundae combines warm, spiced peaches with homemade vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, rainbow sprinkles, and a crunchy pie-crust crumble that stays crisp beneath the ice cream. A root beer float pairs dense homemade vanilla ice cream with flavorful Dr. Brown’s root beer served tableside so guests can control the foam.
Small’s Wine Bar feels like the kind of spot that easily becomes part of your routine. Like its neighbors in the popular Eastside business park, this dimly lit wine bar is friendly, a little chaotic, and full of personality. The room gets warm, the conversation gets loud, and nobody seems too bothered. Split a bottle, order a few plates and a pizza for the table, then linger until the record changes.
This article appears in July 31 • 2026.
