Chumikal’s
3223 E. Seventh, 385-8898Monday-Saturday, 6am-5pm
In addition to great, cheap hamburger baskets, Chumikal’s sampler platter allows you to try almost everything on the menu. Pasteles are salty, deep-fried corn tortillas with shredded chicken and mild, savory stuffing much like a decadent empanada. Pupusas are masa pancakes filled with shredded pork or green chile and cheese, like Mexican sopes turned inside out. You can order holiday tamales now for $6 per dozen.
Elsi’s
4708 Burnet Rd., 454-0747Sunday-Tuesday, 7am-3pm; Wednesday-Saturday, 7am-9pm
Though it advertises itself as a Salvadoran/Mexican restaurant, most menu items at Elsi’s are traditional Mexican dishes prepared with Salvadoran flair. Accordingly, items like enchiladas with chipotle sauce are more tangy than spicy, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing for mild-mannered palates. Salvadoran dishes such as pupusas and cortida, the Salvadoran national dish of masa gorditas filled with spiced pork or cheese alongside spicy cabbage slaw, often appear as lunch specials. Elsi’s is also a popular neighborhood hangout for breakfast. Big Salvadoran style tamales wrapped in banana leaves are available for the holidays at $24 per dozen in beef, pork, and vegetarian poblano varieties.
Miguel’s La Bodega
415 Colorado, 472-2369Wednesday, 5pm-12:30am; Thursday-Saturday, 5pm-2am
Though primarily a Mexican restaurant, Miguel’s La Bodega features several South American dishes, such as the Parilla ô la Chimichurri (grilled fish or chicken with an Argentinean marinade of cilantro, garlic, herbs, and citrus). In addition, the restaurant occasionally hosts dinners during which a specific Latin American cuisine is featured (call for details). You can make an evening of it by taking salsa, merengue, cumbia, or cha-cha lessons and trying out your new steps on Miguel’s popular dance floor.
Sampaio’s Restaurant
2809 San Jacinto, 469-9988Monday, 11am-2pm; Tuesday-Thursday, 11am-10pm; Friday-Saturday, 11am-11pm; Sunday, 9am-2pm
Magna Sampaio and Melba Garcia run Sampaio’s in the strip between the Posse East and the Crown and Anchor Pub. The menu offers Brazilian cuisine as well as Tex-Mex dishes. Sampaio’s does a version of the national dish, Feijoada and has some appetizers that shouldn’t be missed: the Brazilian Cheese Rolls and the Fried Rice Cheese Puffs served with a cilantro cream and a Brazilian tomato sauce. The constantly changing daily specials are inexpensive, full-flavored, and fast from the kitchen. The menu at Sampaio also features many sandwiches and an extensive list of excellent sides, and the dessert case contains sinfully rich delights.
El Zunzal
642 Calles, 474-7749Monday-Friday, 8am-9pm; Saturday-Sunday, 9am-10pm
Taking its name from the popular surfing beach on El Salvador’s Pacific coast, this cheery spot appears to be the social center for the growing local Salvadoran population. It’s a cozy, comfortable place serving Mexican and Salvadoran specialties. We recommend the arroz con albondigas, the mariscadas, and the pupusas. There are burgers, burritos, and soup for the less adventurous. They’re cooking seven days a week, early till late.
Julio’s
4230 Duval, 452-1040Monday-Saturday, 8:30am-9pm
The signature item at this Hyde Park cafe is meltingly tender rotisserie chicken. Julio’s marinates and seasons their birds before roasting, creating an inimitable taste sensation that’s not too spicy and far from bland. Vegetarian tacos with perfectly grilled zucchini and summer squash are another favorite. Other menu options include enchiladas, chalupas, fajitas, and migas for breakfast. Even the pinto beans and rice are prepared with flair.
Doña Emilia’s
1411 E. Seventh, 478-2520Monday-Friday, 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm; Saturday, 11am-9pm; Sunday, 11am-6pm
Located across the street from the refurbished Texas State Cemetery, Doña Emilia’s specializes in the hearty cuisine of Colombia. Menu highlights include Ajiaco, a cream of potato and chicken soup served with rice and avocado, and Sobrebarriga ô la Criolla, a stewed beef brisket in sauce. For an appetizer, try the Pandebono, a Colombian-style cheese bread. Doña Emilia’s also serves Sunday brunch and several $6 weekday lunch specials.
This article appears in December 13 • 2002.