Chumikal’s
3223 E. Seventh, 385-8898
Mon-Sat, 6am-9pm
In addition to great, cheap hamburger baskets, Chumikal’s serves a Salvadoran menu on Fridays from 5-9pm and Saturdays from 2-9pm. A sampler platter allows you to try almost everything on the menu. Pasteles are salty, deep-fried corn tortillas with shredded chicken and mild, savory stuffing much like a decadent empanada. Pupusas are masa pancakes filled with shredded pork or green chile and cheese, like Mexican sopes turned inside out. The sizable Salvadoran tamal is a beautiful thing: pork shredded with chopped green beans, olives, and potatoes, mixed with masa and steamed in a banana leaf. Fried yucca with hot sauce and plantains fried with dried pork round out the meal deliciously.
Miguel’s La Bodega
415 Colorado, 472-2369
Wed, 5pm-12:30am; Thu-Sat, 5pm-2am
Though primarily a Mexican restaurant, Miguel’s La Bodega features several South American dishes, such as the Parilla a la Chimichurri (grilled fish or chicken with an Argentinean marinade of cilantro, garlic, herbs, and citrus). In addition, the restaurant occasionally hosts dinners where a specific Latin American cuisine is featured (call for details). You can make an evening of it by taking salsa, merengue, cumbia, or cha-cha lessons and trying out your new steps on Miguel’s popular dance floor.
El Zunzal
642 Calles, 474-7749
Sun-Thu, 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat, 9am-1am
Taking its name from the popular surfing beach on El Salvador’s Pacific coast, this cheery spot appears to be the social center for the growing local Salvadoran population. It’s a cozy, comfortable place serving Mexican and Salvadoran specialties. We recommend the arroz con albondigas, the mariscadas, and the pupusas. There are burgers, burritos, and soup for the less adventurous. They’re cooking seven days a week, early ’til late.
Julio’s
4230 Duval, 452-1040
Mon-Thu, 8am-10pm; Fri, 8am-10pm; Sat, 9am-10pm
The signature item at this Hyde Park cafe is meltingly tender rotisserie chicken. Julio’s marinates and seasons their birds before roasting, creating an inimitable taste sensation that’s not too spicy and far from bland. Vegetarian tacos with perfectly grilled zucchini and summer squash are another favorite. Other menu options include enchiladas, chalupas, fajitas, and migas for breakfast. Even the pinto beans and rice are prepared with flair.
Sabor
1411 E. Seventh, 236-1180
Sun-Thu, 7am-8pm; Fri-Sat, 10am-10pm
This quaint Salvadoran/Mexican restaurant is closed for remodeling until July 30. Once they reopen, you can partake of Sabor’s tasty pupusas and generously sized Salvadoran tamales with beef or pork stuffing. Salvadoran food tends to be milder than Mexican food, so you probably won’t need a side of Pepcid AC. However, if you crave Mexican, Sabor also has fajitas and tacos al carbon.
Empanada Parlour
707 E. Sixth, 480-8902
Mon-Fri, 11am-2am; Sat, noon-2am; Sun, noon-4pm
This eclectic restaurant is a fine spot for an inexpensive downtown lunch. Entrée empanadas include Argentinean chicken, turkey with curry, picadillo and spinach with feta cheese and chipotle sauce. Sweet empanadas include pear with vanilla and pumpkin with pecans and cajeta. Soup, salads, and sandwiches are also served. The more expensive dinner menu includes items such as roasted Cornish hen and grilled salmon. As the night goes on, the Empanada Parlour’s cool basement bar becomes more active with happy hour drink specials and live music.
This article appears in July 21 • 2000.