Second Helpings: Casual Fine

22

6203 N. Capital of Texas Highway at 2222, 346-4411

Sun-Thu, 5:30-11pm; Fri-Sat, 5:30-11pm

There’s a shiny new star in the expanding constellation of upscale new restaurants west of the city, and its name is 22. Chef Casey Lloyd’s cuisine expresses Italian, Vietnamese, and South Pacific influences, and the results achieve that elusive combination of subtle and complex. The enormous, succulent, crispy prawns with oyster mushrooms, baby corn, and whipped sweet potatoes is a showstopper, as is the perfectly cooked, crusted halibut on parsnip purée and the signature 22 green curry sauce. The tuxedoed waitstaff is well-trained and accommodating, and the thoughtfully selected wine list is extensive. If I were out to impress somebody, I’d take them to 22.

Kaya Blue Cafe

621-A E. Sixth, 478-8788

Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11am-2:30pm; Dinner, Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-10:30pm

While I generally approach culinary fusion with some degree of skepticism, East Sixth Street’s newest restaurant, Kaya Blue, made a believer of me. Neither the whimsically painted décor nor the Asian/Cajun menu items (with a dash of Caribbean thrown in for good measure) are for the timid. Deep colors and deep flavors are the order of the day, as illustrated by the outrageously tasty asparagus and crawfish bisque with daikon sprouts and toasted sesame seeds. Try the thin slices of barely seared tuna topped with fresh crab, alongside a huge juicy scallop dressed in a delectable puff of wasabi mousse, all resting amicably in a bed of blackeyed peas and hot peppers. Fusion? Sure. But trust me, it works.

Ella’s Restaurant and Bar

1 Jefferson Square, 458-2148

Mon-Thu, 11am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; Fri & Sat, 11am-2pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Sun, 10am-2pm

Ella’s at Jefferson Square is an established neighborhood restaurant with a well-executed, solid vision — imaginative nouvelle Texas food, an emphasis on wine, a gently elegant ambiance, and competent, unobtrusive service. Make reservations for the popular monthly Monday-night wine tastings, which offer a selection of related wines paired with chef’s specialty plates and knowledgeable commentary by experts from Grapevine Market.

Granite Cafe

2905 San Gabriel, 472-6483

Brunch, Sun, 11:30am-3pm

The breezy loggia that surrounds the second-story Granite Cafe has always been one of the nicest spots in central Austin for al fresco dining. The most recent menu, at the hands of Chef Sam Dickey, is a happy combination of nouvelle basics — seared tuna, venison, quail, pasta, pizza enhanced by the flavors of the Southwest and Mexico, such as guajillo and pasilla peppers, tomatillos, hoja santa, mole, pecans, and pepitas. The shrimp and watermelon ceviche is a fresh new twist on an old favorite.

Mon-Fri, 11am-9:30pm; Sat, 11am-4pm

Long a favorite spot for lunch and takeout, 34th Street Cafe has branched out past its daytime offerings of beautiful soups, salads, sandwiches, and Tuscan pizzas and now serves dinner five nights a week. The menu changes every few weeks, but you can count on a variety of housemade pastas, meat and fish dishes, and upscale pizzas. The grilled quail served on mixed greens is a treat. Partake of the evening fare in house, or have it prepared to take home.

Travis Room at Lakeway Inn

101 Lakeway Drive, west off Hwy 620 S., 261-6600

Daily, 7am-2pm, 6-10pm; Sunday brunch buffet, 11am-2pm

Lakeway Inn’s Travis Room serves resort-style breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and the huge glass wall affords an impressive view of the lake. The après-golf (or -church) Sunday brunch provides standard groaning-board fare, with omelet and waffles made to order, hot and cold lunch items from sushi to roast beef, and a tempting array of rich desserts (you know you shouldn’t, but the pie crusts in particular are exceptional). The most interesting offerings are a variety of imaginatively prepared seasonal vegetables, such as a piquant combination of spaghetti squash, butternut squash, and portobello mushrooms.

Z’Tejas Grill

1110 W. Sixth, 478-5355

Fri, 11am-11pm; Sat, 10am-11pm; Sun, 10am-10pm

I recommend walking or taking the ‘Dillo to the original Z’Tejas Grill in the busy West Sixth corridor; parking can be a trial. Nonetheless, your efforts gain you a spot in one of the treehouse decks or dining rooms for the unique and reasonable fare for which this quintessentially Austin eatery is justly famous. The hearty Navajo tacos with crunchy cornmeal-fried spinach, the catfish beignets, grilled quesadillas, and fish tacos are so satisfying, and ancho fudge pie is the traditional sweet punctuation to a meal.

Z’Tejas Grill

9400 Arboretum Blvd., 346-3506

Mon-Thu, 11am-10:00pm; Fri, 11am-11pm; Sat, 10am-11pm; Sun, 10am-10pm

Same name, same organization, similar menus, but it’s hard to imagine a more different ambiance than that of the Arboretum’s Z’Tejas from its funky older sibling downtown. The scale and décor are impressive and the view is spectacular (so is the wait for a table). In addition to the Southwestern-style favorites, the menu includes some Southern comfort food (like a mean chicken-fried steak), as well as some Asian-inspired and Caribbean dishes. A real winner is the substantial smoked chicken and black bean salad with goat cheese, pepper strips, and lime vinaigrette.