Restaurant Review

Tarka Indian Kitchen

The fast-casual restaurant concept is nothing new to Austin. Many national and locally owned eateries have become popular and successful using this template for quick, affordable dining that’s a step above fast food. Tarka – which roughly translates as “seasoning” – is a sister restaurant to the well-loved Clay Pit and one of the latest arrivals of this concept. Southwest Austin is wholly embracing its menu of healthy yet authentic and flavorful Indian cuisine, with all items priced under $10. This was evident by a packed house on a recent Friday evening even as other similar concept restaurants in the same shopping center sat nearly empty.

Following the fast-casual design approach, Tarka features modern decor, clean lines, and bright lights, the earth-toned walls decked with wonderful photos of Indian markets and foods. The menu is displayed on a side wall as you approach the counter. You place your order, take your drink and number, and find a table. On busy nights such as the one in question, a cheerful hostess directs traffic and helps diners find tables as they empty. Counter staff is friendly, patient, and efficient. One of the owners stands by as manager, helping expedite things and ready to answer any question about the menu. The sizzle of pans and intoxicating smells emanating from the open kitchen are enough to make one drool in anticipation.

After much deliberation, my guests and I decided on the samosa chaat ($3.50) as a starter – popular Indian street fare of vegetable samosas topped with onions, garbanzos, raita, chutney, and roti bread crisps. We hadn’t even taken the first mouthful when the soups arrived: An amazing mulligatawny (cup $2.25), a puree of vegetables and lentils dotted with minced chicken and infused with lemon juice, curry powder, and coconut milk, and the vegan Madras soup(cup $2), a tomato-coconut broth seasoned with Indian spices and finished with onions, cumin, and garlic, were both delicious. This would have been enough for a satisfying light dinner, but then you’d be missing out on the outstanding entrées.

Six varieties of curry are served with your choice of chicken, lamb, shrimp, vegetables, or paneer and can be prepared to your preference with mild, medium, or hot seasonings. The traditional saag – delicately spiced pureed spinach with cream, garlic, and onions – was excellent with lamb ($8.25), and the spicy mirch masala with stir-fried mushrooms, onions, and chiles was a good match for plump, sweet shrimp ($9.25). The minced lamb and chicken shish kebab($8.75) comes over basmati rice with red onions, cilantro, tomato, and mint-tamarind chutney, and it’s the perfect alternative for those who don’t like heavily spiced dishes. An aromatic basmati rice biryani ($7.75 with paneer) stir-fried with ginger, garlic, onion, and vegetables was quite spicy (we requested it hot) but the accompanying whipped yogurt sauce helped cool the heat. Also, there are various options to wash it all down: Indian sodas (Limca and Thums Up), lassis (I particularly loved the guava), a few beers, and a small selection of wines that, while generic, are well-chosen to complement the cuisine. The kids’ menu features child-friendly rice bowls, kebabs, and chicken pakoras (Indian-style chicken fingers), all served with a choice of apple juice, mango lemonade, or a fountain drink.

Tarka is also making strides as an eco-friendly restaurant, recycling used cooking oil, glass, aluminum, plastic, and cardboard and composting food waste. Environmentally friendly to-go packaging and reusable take-out bags available for purchase round out the purposeful endeavor. My only complaint about Tarka is of a personal nature and has to do with the fast-casual concept. While I see the convenience of superfast dining for today’s busy families, I found the atmosphere too loud, bright, and hurried. My dining companions and I all agreed, but we also argued about the merits of this concept over the usual fast-food enterprises. I see the advantage of a great-quality quick lunch while shopping or during work hours or dinner on the way to or after a movie. But for those of us who enjoy the dining experience, the food at Tarka is just too good to eat in a hurry. Our table was loaded with seven dishes that practically arrived at the same time. The buzzing of the full restaurant made it impossible to even hear the ambient music, which only added to the noise level. The clattering of pans and phones incessantly ringing made conversation a challenge, and frequent glances from the hostess into the dining room made us feel we had to make room for the line of waiting patrons. If fast-casual dining fits your lifestyle, I wholeheartedly recommend Tarka whether you dine inside or on the parking-lot-view patio. Personally, next time I wish to enjoy fine Indian cuisine from the comfort of South Austin, I’ll call in for takeout or have it delivered (Tarka uses www.dineondemandonline.com) instead. Because there will be a next time, for sure.

This article appears in February 19 • 2010.