RedBud Bar & Grille
3267 Bee Caves Rd., 327-8746
Monday-Thursday: 11am-9:30pm; Friday: 11am-10pm; Saturday: noon-10pm
www.redbudgrille.comWho is the most popular girl on an aircraft carrier at any given time? Or the most appealing man in a convent? Ever? Why, the one who is there, of course. While we can always fantasize about some absent, unobtainable ideal, a bird in the hand trumps all every time. As the only full-service bar in West Lake Hills, RedBud Bar & Grille is by definition the most popular bar in the district. Fortunately, its success isn’t due solely to the myriad martinis, margaritas, and mojitos poured.
Housed in the ubiquitous architectural landmark of suburbia, the strip mall, the RedBud Bar & Grille has outfitted itself nicely with smooth river rocks embedded in the bar and along low walls. The concrete floors are stained a warm russet and polished to a glow, while piney trellises hang from the ceiling, all of which give the cavernous space a casual elegance.
Offering at least as many options as the dining selection is the bar menu, listing dozens of varieties of libations. On a quiet Tuesday, we sampled a classic Mojito ($7) and a Longhorn Margarita ($7.50), both of which were nicely mixed, refreshing, and, perhaps most importantly, ample.
We sampled two of the soup options to begin our meal: the Seafood Gumbo ($3.95) and the daily special of Chilled Avocado ($2.95). The gumbo proved respectable, if not especially memorable, as the roux lacked the soulful depth of richer renditions. The puréed avocado option was flecked with cilantro, but it, too, was surprisingly tame for a cup that featured the bold herb. Perhaps fear of overwhelming the subtle flavor of the buttery avocado resulted in the restraint in the seasoning department.
For entrées, we opted for Steak Churrasco ($18.95) and Parmesan Crusted Tilapia ($17.95). Entrées are offered with two sides, and for $2 more, a salad can be substituted for one of the options, so we chose a RedBud salad and sautéed spinach with the steak. The steak churrasco is a cilantro- and garlic-pesto-marinated hanger steak, grilled and sliced against the grain. Such a robust marinade could obliterate a dish, but the beefy flavor came through in the perfectly grilled meat. A RedBud Salad is hearty dish worthy of accompanying a steak: greens topped with rich bleu cheese dressing, crumbled bleu cheese bits, and generous with bacon. The baby spinach is simple and straightforward, large in portion and simply sautéed.
The Parmesan-crusted tilapia is likewise straightforward: a fillet of the mild fish encased in a crust of sautéed and melted cheese. There’s not a lot of finesse in this dish, but it’s simple and rich and served with an equally rich caper-studded beurre blanc. Think a more sophisticated tuna melt, and you’re on the right track.
Despite the hearty meals, we sampled the housemade desserts and settled on a lovely Key Lime Pie ($5.95) in a traditional graham cracker crust, as well as a deep, dense Chocolate Torte ($6.95) that could not have included more than a whisper of flour.
As the only joint where you can get a genuine cocktail without venturing out of West Lake, RedBud Bar & Grille is guaranteed a degree of popularity, at least initially. What will keep crowds coming, though, are the reliably appetizing meals that are offered amid the Cosmopolitans, Gimlets, and Manhattans.
This article appears in June 23 • 2006.