Potluck at the Pedernales

Harira (Moroccan Ramadan Soup of Lamb, Chickpeas, and Lentils)

Moroccan Moslems celebrate the ninth month of the lunar calendar, or the “month of fasting,” by refraining from the consumption of any food or water between sunup and sundown. At sunset a cannon salvo is fired, or there is an announcement by the muezzin (holy men) high in a minaret, signifying the break of fast. Moroccans dine on this soup immediately thereafter, accompanied by dates and a honey cake called chebakiah. Harira is traditionally thickened with a paste made of flour and water that has been allowed to ferment slightly, but modern Moroccans are more apt to use thin soup vermicelli noodles as a thickener.

2 tbsp butter

1 lb boneless lamb, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/4 tsp ground turmeric

1/2 tsp saffron threads, soaked in 2 tbsp warm stock, crushed

1 tbsp ground black pepper

1 tbsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground ginger

1/4 cup chopped celery ribs and leaves

2 onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup parsley leaves and stems, chopped

2 lbs tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped

2 tbsp tomato paste

2 quarts rich lamb or chicken stock

1 cup chickpeas, cooked

3/4 cup dried red lentils, rinsed

8 peeled white pearl onions

1/4 cup thin soup vermicelli (fideo), crushed

Parsley and cilantro leaves for garnish

Ground cinnamon for garnish

Lemon wedges for garnish

Melt the butter in a soup pot and sauté the lamb cubes over medium-high heat until lightly browned. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the spices, celery, onions, garlic, and parsley, and sauté five minutes. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook an additional 15 minutes. Add the stock, chickpeas, and lentils, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer partially covered for one hour. Add the pearl onions and simmer an additional 30 minutes. Five minutes before serving, stir in the noodles. Adjust seasonings and serve very hot, garnished with parsley and cilantro leaves and a light dusting of ground cinnamon, accompanied by lemon wedges.

Wes Marshall’s Recommended Wine: 1999 Bogle Petit Sirah, $9.99

This Petit Sirah is a huge, fruit-driven wine with enough oomph to contend with the strong flavors in the recipe. One of the best parts of the combination is the delightful way the cinnamon and wine affect each other.

This article appears in December 22 • 2000.