9033 Hwy183, 339-7444
Daily from 11am-2am
When a restaurant advertises Louisiana Cajun and Creole cuisine served with
live jazz and French Quarter cocktails, certain images spring to mind with
expectations to match: quaint, colorful decor; rich and spicy food, potent
drinks, and lively music. On a recent visit, ten-year Austin institution
Pearl’s Oyster Bar only delivered marginally. The new Pearl’s, completely
rebuilt and relocated since the devastating 1995 fire, is all clean, black
lines, slick hard surfaces, mini-blinds and high-tech furniture. A recent
dinner there felt as though we had stumbled into an office party with elaborate
food and a live band.
There were many interesting items on the large menu and choices were
difficult. We started with Louisiana Pan Fried Crab Cakes (2 for $6.95) which
had small chunks of some starchy vegetable extender mixed with the crab, served
with a “creamy mustard sauce,” which was plain Zatarain’s Creole mustard
squirted around the plate. Our other choice, Shrimp en Brochette ($5.95)
featured Gulf shrimp and a cold, unmelted chunk of Gouda cheese wrapped in
partially cooked bacon, deep-fried in a heavy crust. There are several superior
variations and renditions of this dish available around town, namely the Hot
Kisses at City Grill and the Cajun Kisses at the Old Alligator.
Unfortunately, the entr�e choices didn’t fare much better. Crawfish
Etouffee ($12.95) was teaming with tender mudbug tails but the dark roux was
overwhelmed with too much pepper. Seafood Crepes ($11.95) were filled with
plenty of shrimp and crabmeat but napped with a grainy cream sauce. The true
winners of the evening were a well-prepared Shrimp Po-Boy ($6.95), a very
satisfying version of the New Orleans Monday staple Red Beans and Rice ($2.50)
and a Pearl’s original soup called Jambalaya Gumbo ($3.95) that was chock-full
of seafood and chunks of andouille sausage.
The service was pleasant, if a little confused, the night we visited. A new
waiter, perhaps? Pearl’s offers a happy hour buffet and a popular Sunday brunch
complete with beignets and coffee. North Austin is not famous for music venues
with well-stocked bars and dining rooms, and certainly Pearl’s location
certainly works in the restaurant/venue’s favor. They continue to maintain a
very loyal clientele. — Virginia B. Wood
This article appears in September 6 • 1996 and September 6 • 1996 (Cover).