New on the Menu

Lucy’s Fried Chicken

Last year, Olivia chef James Holmes opened Lucy’s, which has become a haven for those who love the fried chicken at Olivia but want something a little more casual and comfort-food-oriented. Obviously, the can’t-miss item here is the aforementioned yardbird, which arrives in a seemingly bottomless bucket ($23.50) dotted with pickle spears and fiery fresh jalapeno slices. The chicken is tender and juicy, the breading perfectly crisp, and it pairs wonderfully with the plump and porky black-eyed peas ($2.75) or the buttery, smashed grilled potatoes ($2.25). The deep-fried deviled eggs ($4.25) aren’t for everyone, but no one should go to the grave without having sampled one. Don’t count out the wood-grilled oysters ($13), either, each tender bivalve delivering a pop of flavor and a distinctive spice profile based on your preference (I recommend the Austin, a two-step of tequila and lime with a chili-sauce zing).

The recent departure of pastry chef Taff Mayberry has necessitated a slight shake-up on the all-pie dessert menu, but the stalwart sweet tea and key lime flavors make for a sweet finish to a deeply comforting and eminently playful meal. Thirsty? Teetotalers can enjoy a Maine Root Mexicane Cola ($3) or a bubbly Topo Chico mineral water ($2.25), but the real libatious joy lies in the boozier portions of the menu, from the Juicy Lucy frozen watermelon margarita ($6.50) to the tart and spicy Bee Sting ($9), not to mention the embarrassment of local brews on tap. While the service ethos is, uh, relaxed, it only serves to enhance the feeling of being at an impeccably curated picnic.

This article appears in October 12 • 2012.