For the past month or so, I’ve been driving past the spot at 5201 Airport Boulevard, formerly occupied by Sala & Betty, a bit baffled by the goings-on of ATX Grill, the eagerly anticipated barbecue concept from the former Russian House folks that launched in the space back in October 2022.
The temporary ATX Grill signage disappeared sometime in January, and there didn’t seem to be much activity there. Strangely enough, I was planning to make some phone calls today, or even swing by and press my nose against the glass to suss out what was up, when lo and behold, a mysterious email found its way into my inbox.
It’s an invitation to attend the grand opening of Rosé Gosé, a “comfort food restaurant, which collected a sliver of amazing things from kitchens all over the world with over 250 wines, 50 craft beers, and a cocktail list to pair the dishes.”
“Our cuisine is about feeling and atmosphere, where great food is an accompaniment to emotions and a pairing for great wine or cocktails,” the email continues. “We love to talk and pair wine, creating a cozy atmosphere for you.”
The restaurant’s Instagram page suggests that this concept has been in the works since 2020, with enticing photos of wine and a few dishes, but the most recent post is more than two years old. A job posting for line cooks on Poached – and a newly erected sign (see photo) – indicates that Rosé Gosé fancies itself a “neobistro.” What is a neobistro? The mystery deepens.
Color me intrigued. Watch this space for further information, and rest assured I’ll be taking my nosy self over to Rosé Gosé on March 1.
This article appears in February 17 • 2023.




